Its flex pvc 1.5 It was connected about 2 years before they came.
Should be no problem if installed correctly. Used in many pools. Pond builders however generally seem to less experienced so there's that.
Any who, to answer your question, once you're sure the leak is under the concrete there is no choice other than dig it up. There can be a problem matching stone and knowing where to dig so might require removing a lot. Might get lucky and the problem be the skimmer connection. Leaks are virtually always at connections and there hopefully the pipe from the skimmer to the pump should be continuous (kind of the point of using flex PVC). Proper sized PVC rarely cracks, but always possible.
This is one time you could save some money trying to find a really good swimming pool contractor. Someone with experience to really try and narrow down where the leak might be. Pay them just to find the leak, nothing more, if you can find such a person. Just based on very limited info I'm wondering why the skimmer only leaks when turned on since the skimmer is normally below the waterline it should in theory leak all the time if the leak is below the concrete, even if after the pump. Possible the leak is very small and increases when the pump is on because some stress opens something up, but water pressure in pipes before the pump is almost zero, so not likely. That would point me to the line after the pump, only the part above the concrete. Any pipe below the water surface level, even after the pump (because will water flow thru a pump even when off) can kind of be excluded (in theory only, air pockets can block water). So if the skimmer pump feeds a falls I'd make absolutely sure the problem wasn't there. And if the skimmer pump is the only thing feeding a falls I'd focus on the falls. #1 place for leaks by far.
One small point on rebar in a patio...virtually everyone wants steel in concrete to make it "strong". But steel doesn't stop concrete from cracking, it just holds cracked concrete together. There are a few people in the world, myself included, who think it is better to pour the concrete thicker and skip the steel. Better to have concrete that doesn't crack than simply held together. Who wants cracks in a driveway or patio? And once cracks appear water gets in, rebar rusts and really cracks the concrete. So steel sometimes doesn't really increase useful life very much. In at least San Jose CA for example it's against building code to put any steel in at least driveways and sidewalks. Lack of steel also makes repairs easier. After you patio is cut and repairs made to put it back together they have to drill horizontal holes to tie rebar back into the existing slab to rebar the old and new back together. Adds expense. Given the size of the patio, hard to match patches perfectly, not really knowing where the leak is, I'd be considering removing it all and replacing. Which is why I'd have every pipe not under concrete exposed first. Also would dig down pretty far anywhere around the slab just to see if I saw anything. Digging holes is cheap. I'd at least call the building department and ask if steel is allowed in patios. They know your local conditions best and the call is free.