Advise: New Concrete Koi Pond with Wetland Filter

[GBBUDD]

Regarding the bottom drains - they don't necessarily need to be tied together - I can use 2 pumps for each drain if I choose to - and I understand that you think this is the preferred way to go, right?

I have no idea what building codes are in Israel . but here in the states when a water body has a drain once it gets deeper then X there has to be two drains on the same pipe each that can intake the full suction of the pump . so if your pump is a 4000 gph then your drains BOTH need to be able to handle 4000 gph each that way if someone did plug one up while being underwater the other drain will be able to handle the suction and not hold someone under water and drown.

Regarding the proofing - I am planning to use this product which I have good experience with.

This statement makes me question if its safe for fish I got it off a different site your link wanted me to except cookies. my cookies are mine. no offence.
{"Repair of flat roof waterproofing on roofs of structures which are not habitations}
I would look at plaster its been used for hundreds of years . though i know there are many man made today that will work

Also, from your experience - and considering my basic design - what would you do with the 2 flexi-pipes coming from the bottom drains of the Koi pond? These pipes (covered with these) should draw solids and sediments and I cannot feed the bottom of the wetland with them.

But you can and should . i would have the two 2 inch lines tie together with a 3 inch tee-y This will not restrict the water flow from either line. If your using a pump larger then 4000 gph if under 4000 then a 2 inch tee-y or 2 1/2 " tee y would suffice. from the tee-y i would run that right to your external pump that has a strainer basket. and that will keep any solids from getting to the pump and lock it up . The water front he pump depending on the size you go with can then be pumped to the bottom of the bog/ wetland filter . and or be split and have the pump push some of the water right back to the pond for circulation. i would have the water fall come out more in the left corner from where you have it facing the steps and front door. im assuming this is the from entrance to the home. this way you can see it as you walk up to the door and the current will push the water across toward the walkway over the pond the x in yellow are pumps or return jets and red is direction of flow . at least this is how i would set it up this way you have all the corners covered and the drains in the center are in your dead spots and will draw the dirt in

 

[Phaewryn]

Thank you very much for your comments and suggestions!

Looking at the line coming from the pond side skimmer, this line is going to feed the wetland.
The water is drawn from the top of the pond feeding the centipede module at the bottom of the wetland.
For my pond and wetland sizes, I was thinking of going for a 2000 GPH external pump (maybe this one).

I see your point regarding starving the bog filter and surely I don't want to do that.
However, I do need to take care of solids and sediments that otherwise can clog my bog filter fast.
I know the skimmer basket takes care of some of it, but I guess it will not be enough.

How do you suggest I take care of the large sediments and solids prior to the bog filter while keeping enough nutrients for the wetland?

A prefilter basket catches all the large solids and allows you to remove them without starving your bog of nutrients:
https://koimarket.com/shop/pond-supplies/pond-filters/bead-filter/gctek/aquasieve-2-pond-prefilter/
https://russellwatergardens.com/products/pond-sieve-hydrosieve

 

[shmoolik]

This statement makes me question if its safe for fish I got it off a different site your link wanted me to except cookies.

Nice catch - thanks! Actually I was using this product for a different application (just water no aquatic life) and it was very good so I assumed it'll fit. But you are absolutely correct and this product is not safe foe aquatic life so I will need to find an alternative. Shouldn't be hard. Thanks again for bringing it to my attention!

But you can and should . i would have the two 2 inch lines tie together with a 3 inch tee-y This will not restrict the water flow from either line. If your using a pump larger then 4000 gph if under 4000 then a 2 inch tee-y or 2 1/2 " tee y would suffice. from the tee-y i would run that right to your external pump that has a strainer basket. and that will keep any solids from getting to the pump and lock it up . The water front he pump depending on the size you go with can then be pumped to the bottom of the bog/ wetland filter . and or be split and have the pump push some of the water right back to the pond for circulation.

I have 3 pipes:
1. Bottom drain 1
2. Bottom drain 2
3. From pond side skimmer (Helix)

If I connect all 3 pipes to the bottom of the bog filter, I will need too strong a pump which will harm the biological filtration.
I am planning to feed the bog with a maximum of 3000 GPH (from the skimmer).
As you suggested, I can (and will) use a split.
However, instead of directly pushing water to the pond, and since the water coming from the bog filter aren't strong enough to create good water flow on the waterfall between the bog and the pond, I am planning to slowly pour highly oxygenated clean water over the bog filter.

i would have the water fall come out more in the left corner from where you have it facing the steps and front door. im assuming this is the from entrance to the home. this way you can see it as you walk up to the door and the current will push the water across toward the walkway over the pond the x in yellow are pumps or return jets and red is direction of flow . at least this is how i would set it up this way you have all the corners covered and the drains in the center are in your dead spots and will draw the dirt in

The jets is a great idea and I was already thinking about it and read about recommended heights and equipment - thanks!
Regarding the waterfall location - from technical reasons I cannot move it at this stage.

My Pond build can be seen here ---> https://www.gardenpondforum.com/threads/going-for-it-phase-one-12-000-gallon-pond.22563/

Wow!!! I must say that your pond is one of the most beautiful pieces of heaven I have ever seen!
Absolutely amazing!
Thank you for your time and all your tips - they are very valuable!

 

[brokensword]

If I connect all 3 pipes to the bottom of the bog filter, I will need too strong a pump which will harm the biological filtration.
I am planning to feed the bog with a maximum of 3000 GPH (from the skimmer).
As you suggested, I can (and will) use a split.
However, instead of directly pushing water to the pond, and since the water coming from the bog filter aren't strong enough to create good water flow on the waterfall between the bog and the pond, I am planning to slowly pour highly oxygenated clean water over the bog filter.

2 points; first is that if you 'pour water over the bog filter' you're not doing much good re filtration as a bog filter (more properly upflow wetland filter) works by forcing water UP through the pea gravel. Pouring it on top defeats any benefit as the water isn't forced to do anything but find an egress, which of on top, not through anything.

Second point; generally, bog filtration works best with a SLOW flow-through, hence you don't need huge amounts of water/force with this system. Some (including me) put much more and still get good results, so you've got plenty of leeway.

That said, you can push water to the bottom of your bog AND pour some overtop to get the look you want re waterfall action. Just be aware that over time, the water height in your bog will rise, so have enough liner wall height above normal water height when this happens or it may overflow where you don't want it.