A couple questions about installing pond liner with a bridge...

[rubyduby]

Then GBBUDD's idea is what I would entertain...An aluminum strip (black) screwed into the masonry holding up the liner (adhesive first of course I think that would be the cheapest way to go but I would consult a pool professional for advice....Don't they line cement pools that have cracked badly? Just to make sure you use the right adhesive, ect...

 

[poconojoe]

That's some beautiful work!

They do sell brush on pond coatings. Just do a search for pond coating rubber...here's the search I did:

pond coating rubber - Yahoo Search Results

search.yahoo.com

If you go that route, patch those cracks with hydraulic cement. Let that set up and brush on one of those rubber coatings.

 

[Nevermore44]

(slow day for stay at home work)

As others note... the stone is a highlight of the pond and if you wrap your liner over it at the top and then cap it with brick... due to the bridge.. you will have a huge amount of exposed liner covering it all up. Here's my diagram and imagery of what you could do ... lots of work this way. This route will give you a PVC wood ledger around the pond at the water's surface and you won't see the liner at all.

Do note... you would want to get the pure PVC wood... not the composite wood since it has real wood fibers mixed in with the plastic. You can get the PVC boards in different colors too.

The basic idea is to first put up a ledger all around the top of the poured wall as well as slightly on the underside of your bridge. Then you would add in the liner. This will be a feat by itself because of the bridge. (make sure you have many people over for this part to help, pole camps, etc). Fill the pond in stages in order to push the liner out while you make your very well planned and spaced folds. You don't want folds on top of folds on the ledger. Secure the liner to the ledger with stainless staples or large head stainless nails or screws enough to keep it up. Once the pond is filled, the water pressure will hold the liner outward completely.

The last part is to add a second "rabbited" fascia board that gets secured over the liner and the original ledger. This would be made of two pieces, the outer thin fascia board.. and then a backer to fill the space at the top.

LOTS of work!!!!!

What's your plans on dealing with overflow? filtration?

 

[rubyduby]

(slow day for stay at home work)

As others note... the stone is a highlight of the pond and if you wrap your liner over it at the top and then cap it with brick... due to the bridge.. you will have a huge amount of exposed liner covering it all up. Here's my diagram and imagery of what you could do ... lots of work this way. This route will give you a PVC wood ledger around the pond at the water's surface and you won't see the liner at all.

Do note... you would want to get the pure PVC wood... not the composite wood since it has real wood fibers mixed in with the plastic. You can get the PVC boards in different colors too.

The basic idea is to first put up a ledger all around the top of the poured wall as well as slightly on the underside of your bridge. Then you would add in the liner. This will be a feat by itself because of the bridge. (make sure you have many people over for this part to help, pole camps, etc). Fill the pond in stages in order to push the liner out while you make your very well planned and spaced folds. You don't want folds on top of folds on the ledger. Secure the liner to the ledger with stainless staples or large head stainless nails or screws enough to keep it up. Once the pond is filled, the water pressure will hold the liner outward completely.

The last part is to add a second "rabbited" fascia board that gets secured over the liner and the original ledger. This would be made of two pieces, the outer thin fascia board.. and then a backer to fill the space at the top.

LOTS of work!!!!!

What's your plans on dealing with overflow? filtration?

To say I‘m impressed is an understatement Nevermore44...you have undoubtedly solved jsizzle‘s problem in the least expensive way.

 

[poconojoe]

I would patch those cracks with hydraulic cement. Chisel out those cracks in a "V" shape, with the wide part inside so when the cement sets up, it will be shaped like a wedge and won't fall out. Before you do the cement, hit it with a power washer to reallly clean it out good and dampen the surface in preparation of the cement. You want the old cement dampened. If it's too dry it might suck all the moisture out of the new cement too quickly causing cracks. There is a white milky looking liquid latex that you can paint on before the cement. It's basically a primer of sorts. It creates a sticky surface for the new cement to adhere to.
For extra insurance, you may want to coat the patches with that brush on pond liner. It might get too expensive to coat the whole pond, but that's up to you.

 

[GBBUDD]

So long as your water level is below the bottom of the bridge support it can easily be done, as pocono has drawn . once you start trying to fill the pond to the top its another ball game

 

[brc]

I kinda doubt it was ever intended to be filled to the top? I'm guessing the original idea was for the water line to be at the bottom of the more decorative stone.

You could always make it a bit higher, by placing the top of the liner wherever you like (it can even start to go up the sides / bottom of the bridge support). It will be a little more work to attach it to that less uniform surface, but it would still be totally doable.

 

[GBBUDD]

I kinda doubt it was ever intended to be filled to the top? I'm guessing the original idea was for the water line to be at the bottom of the more decorative stone.

You could always make it a bit higher, by placing the top of the liner wherever you like (it can even start to go up the sides / bottom of the bridge support). It will be a little more work to attach it to that less uniform surface, but it would still be totally doable.

And if you do that how do you control the folds under the bridge when you start changing angles and raised to the top of the pond you will now have rubber basically upside down gravity will make it sag . Could you secure through the rubber and the seam over the termination strip holding the sag up ? sure and then seam tape over the termination strip but it's no easy task.