Winter Prep

[samanthakay]

We recently purchased a home that came with a 12x12 foot pond that is up to 5 feet deep in the center. Here are a few details about our setup:

• Supposedly they had 40 koi that were all ~2 feet long that died this past winter. They stocked it with ~20 goldfish of various sizes and 2 small koi so that's all we have in there.
• It has a large filter box with 4-5 different sections in it and waterfalls back into the pond.
• When we took possession of the home in June the pond was already pretty green. We have put some algaecide in there but can only see ~6" down.
• We live in the U.P. of Michigan, so way up there!

The previous owners were almost no help with instructing us on how to take care of the pond, so here I am Here are my questions:

1. For the winter, what do I need to purchase? I'm assuming the filter would freeze and the filter box would crack. Do I need a bubbler? A de-icer? Is there something that won't be super expensive?
2. Is there anything I should do to try to get the water more clear, or wait until spring when we plan to drain, clean, and re-fill it?

Thank you so much!

 

[addy1]

Welcome to our forum! We all love our ponds!

Green water = too many nutrients in the pond, are you feeding a lot? Do you have plants in the pond?

Can you see what kind of filter it is? Can you post some pictures of it? A lot here use filters, so they can help you with it.
I just filter with plants and a bog which is a up flow gravel filter full of plants.

A lot of us use pond breathers for the winter and our ponds. It is all I use.

Amazon.com : API 8PB Pond Breather Heated Aerator, 40 Watts : Pond De Icers : Garden & Outdoor

Amazon.com : API 8PB Pond Breather Heated Aerator, 40 Watts : Pond De Icers : Garden & Outdoor

www.amazon.com

Is there anything I should do to try to get the water more clear, or wait until spring when we plan to drain, clean, and re-fill it?

If you drain and clean and refill the pond you will be starting the pond over. The water, most likely, will green up on you again.
If you do that do not scrub the liner, you will be removing the good algae coating.
A lot of us filter with just a bog, the plants use up the excess nutrients which equals clear water. The algae has nothing to live on. I never struggle with murky water.

Post some pictures of your pond as well. Visual helps us know what you have.

 

[poconojoe]

Stop using algecide or any chemicals for that matter. The only thing you should be using is dechlorinizer if you are on treated central water. Too many horror stories of fish dying due to supposed "fish safe" chemicals.

To clear your water you need to understand the natural cycle of your pond.

My best suggestion would be to read through this forum to get an education.

Too much of a fish load, not enough plant life, over feeding your fish, inadequate filtration all contribute to green water. Basically there's an imbalance somewhere in the system.

The fish make waste which creates excess nutrients. The algae feeds on the nutrients. If you add lots of plants, they will starve the algae of the nutrients which can help clear the water.

I run an aerator all year and its definitely needed during the winter. I also use a deicer. Both will help keep an opening in the ice for the bad gas to escape.

Can you better describe the filter box or perhaps take a picture of it? And, yes, if it sits out of the water (not under the water), then store it inside for the winter. I take my pressure filters in for the winter. I do have a bucket submerged in the pond that has a small pump in it covered with lava rock. A small PVC pipe comes out of the pump's outlet and up to the water surface. This homemade filter runs 24/7 365 days.

 

[bagsmom]

Welcome! I LOVE the U.P.!!!! Copper Harbor is beautiful! I'm way down in Satan's Armpit (super hot in the south right now) so I'm no expert on cold winters -- but wanted to say hello!

 

[Lisak1]

Welcome to the GPF! Like @addy1 already said that green water is just a symptom, not a problem. Algaecides only make it worse and are dangerous to both the fish and the other microscopic pond life. Remember - the fish don't care if the water is green. In fact, they prefer it as it gives them some protection from predators.

If your calculations are correct, you have a good sized pond that can handle a good number of fish. However, if they did have a lot of fish die in the pond over the winter, that alone could have left a lot of organic waste in the pond that needs to be cleared out - nature will take care of it if you allow it to.

Share some pictures of your pond and stick with us - we'll all be here cheering you on and sharing what we know. Soon you will be enjoying a carefree pond filled with lovely fish!

 

[poconojoe]

As addy said, a lot of people here don't use commercial filters. They use natural bog filters which seem to be the better option for clear water.

 

[j.w]

@samanthakay

 

[j.w]

Some here use what they call Pond Breathers in really cold freezing states. Also some use cattle trough or pond heaters and only turn on when really needed. Just let them float in your water and turn on when you hear a big freeze is coming. I am lucky I don't live in a severely cold area in Western Washington.

 

[samanthakay]

You guys are all so wonderful, thank you so much!!

I'm so excited to hear that we won't have to empty and clean out the pond next year, I was not looking forward to that lol. And I will definitely stop with the algaecides. I am gone for the weekend but will post more pictures in a few days, in the meantime here are a few basic ones of our pond and then 2 pictures of the filter that I found online to give a general idea (https://www.123ponds.com/pt1770.html).

To be honest, I only feed the fish every now and then, so I don't think I'm overfeeding them. Is it possible though that we don't have enough plants/fish?

 

[addy1]

It looks like you are low on plants I have a ton in all my ponds. You might want to get a net and scoop the bottom of the pond for any leaves etc laying around.

Nice fancy filter, never had one of those. When you clean make sure you use pond water to rinse the material, that way the good bacteria is not killed by chlorine, if you are on city water.

 

[addy1]

Your pond is around 4-5000 gallons, depends on how deep the average of the pond is.
That is probably why the 40 some koi died, they all got too big and the water fouled and or the O2 level dropped real low during winter.

Where do you live? IE real cold, sort of cold or warmish winter?

 

[poconojoe]

All good Responses.
I will add that when you clean the filter, only rinse the pads. Never rinse the bio-balls. You want to preserve the beneficial bacteria on the balls.
And as stated, more plants, and more plants! Plants are a sort of natural filter that suck up excess nutrients, in turn starving the green algae.

 

[samanthakay]

I truly appreciate all of your help! After reading so many different things my mind has started to boggle haha
@poconojoe -good to know about the bio-balls!
@addy1 - We live in the upper peninsula of Michigan, so really cold winters, with lots and lots of snow. Any recommendations on hardy plants? And that's a good idea about trying to scoop the bottom.

 

[addy1]

Here is a list I made years ago.

Wetland or bog filters are best constructed in an up flow design which reduces clogging and facilitates easy cleaning. Bio-Mass is key ~ A pound of bog is required to prevent a pound of algae. Plants should be selected that actively grow at different times, that root to different depths and that have different plant structures.

Excellent Plants for the Bog may include:

Arrowhead Sagitaria (zone 4-6) Summer Bloomer. Bulbing root system stores(nitrogen, potassium & phosphorous)

Canna (zone 8-10) Summer Bloomer. A bog’s best friend. This plant is a biomass factory and has amazing beauty and structure. A heavy feeder on (nitrogen, potassium & phosphorous) from April through September.

Cattails (zone 3-5) Summer Bloomer. are vigorous growers and have deep roots.

Creeping Jenny (zone 5) Spring Bloomer.

Daylily - Spring through Summer Bloomer. Surprisingly, water is the best fertilizer for daylilies. They are an excellent nutrient feeder and grow well in the shallow areas of a bog garden. Daylily come in a variety of colors and blooming times for a long lasting color in your garden.

Eyed Grass (Yellow & Blue) (zones 5-7) Spring Bloomer.

Iris - (zones 4-6) Summer Bloomers.
Common water iris. (Louisiana Iris) Great variety in colors and styles. Plant habit is spreading and untidy appearance.
Japanese variegated water iris is a strong grower late spring through fall. Iris are good at removing both nitrogen and phosphorous.
Siberian Iris are preferred for their strong, clumping habit. Most growth spring and summer but use potassium and phosphorous in summer and fall for energy storage for next year’s bloom.

Kaffir Lily (zone 7) Fall Bloomer. A bulbing lily with watermelon red flowers. Grows in cooler temps of spring and fall. Small top growth controlled.

Lobelia Cardinalis (zones 5-7) Fall Bloomer. Beautiful late summer bloom. Nice color diversity. Heavy potassium user.

Marsh Marigold (zones 2-4) Spring Bloomer. A fast growing cool temperature plant. Begins growing very early in spring producing flowers by early March and continues through April, often re-blooms in the fall when weather cools. Medium root depth and actively feeds when most plants are dormant.

Pickerel Rush (zone 3-6) Summer Bloomer. Strong summer growth and bloom. A spreading habit with a shallow root system. A strong feeder on the total nutrient system. Blue Pickerel Rush is very hardy in our area, with a long bloom season.

Rain Lily (zone 6) Fall Bloomer. Late summer and fall grower. This bulb plant has a small controlled top growth but a dense vigorous root system with storage bulbs. Strong user of phosphorous and potassium.

Rush - Variegated Striped Rush (zone 5-6) Summer Bloomer. Evergreen and continues to grow almost year-round strongest growth in summer. Roots are shallow and need oxygen. Open habit allows for under story growth.but has a large vigorous root system feeding its bulbs. Very

Slough Sedge (zone 4) Very prolific, yet clumping. Grows to 5’ high in bogs. Deep rooting habit. Bio-mass. Strong user of potassium, sulfur, calcium and sodium. Somewhat salt resistant.

Society Garlic (zone 7) Summer Bloomer. Strong summer growth. Love phosphorous.

Star Grass (zone 7) Summer Bloomer. Very controlled, medium root depth, summer fall growth. Grasses are strong feeders of potassium and sulfur.

Thalia (zone 6) Summer Bloomer. Very deep rooted. Open stem structure allows for very diverse under story growth. Summer blooming. Large storage roots.

Water Forget-Me-Not (zone 3) Spring Bloomer. Vigorous low grower. Shallow rooted. Easily pruned. Blooms from March through October.

Yellow Monkey Flower (zone 6) Spring Bloomer. Early spring growth and bloom. Deep root system.