What would you have done differently building your pond(s)

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I thought this thread might be helpful for some and I have some doozys.

On my second pond I wish first of all that I had built a bog pond to act as my filtration system instead of my expensive bead filter and uv system I put in place.

My first pond has a bog filter of sorts and it works perfectly with the only filter being one attached to the pump in the lower pond with next to zero issues for 15 years.

My second pond with the expensive filter system has had multiple issues that all would have been avoided had I gone with a bog pond as filtration.

Flex PVC. For me, a massive mistake. It began to leak under the stone work and I couldn't get to it so all piping had to be rerouted outside of the stone flooring with regular pvc pipe. No issues since but never EVER if you can avoid it have piping that you cannot dig easily to get at.

Use the widest pipe you can. I went with 1.5 inch to save a little money which was a massive mistake and caused more problems with clogging that could have been easily avoided.

When bringing a drain pipe up from the bottom of the pond, keep the pipe as wide as you possibly can until you can get at it. The company that I stupidly let install my koi toilet went from 4 inch pipe to 1.5 inch pipe once it got to the surface and caused all sorts of clogging issues.

Don't use hard pvc for your water filler. For some reason one of the guys who ran this for me cut the hose off and used a hard pvc for the last foot of pipe before connecting it to the auto filler and it took just a few seasons of freezing for it to crack and because of its location it was a real pain to fix.

Shade your pond. At least in the south where we get a lot of heat this was a major problem for me with algae until I installed some shade sails.

When building your pond avoid making a step for plants around the perimeter. I've found that blue herons use that as a step to better get at the fish. My first pond has it and has to be covered 24/7 to keep animals out. My second pond I have no step around it, just a straight drop 3.5 feet down and the water level is about a foot lower than the stone around it. We never keep it covered and I've never lost a fish but I've seen countless herons trying their luck for hours on camera and getting nowhere. Make some shelving you can submerge for plants that can only accommodate the plants if you are adding them. For the middle area for plants I used a large 3 way 4 inch pvc pipe for the fish to swim around in and put a mini shelf on top of it that a plant could sit on.



Please add to this list and hopefully we can help others avoid some of the mistakes we ran into when building!
 
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tex, a lot of what I just read in your post seem more like construction issues to me. Such as; I've used flex pvc for over 10 years and love the stuff. No issues ever, it's no different than the solid pvc. So, the difference between us seems more a placement issue and a skills issue. The biggest reason for using flex pvc is you can avoid more friction by NOT using elbows, tees, etc in your line. This reduces head pressure. Too, flex pvc well, it FLEXES, so cold weather is not a concern, no matter I have it laying on top my embankment or just under it. And stuff like pipe size and reducing at various points, all seem more like design flaws that should not have happened.

Stuff like having a step, there I'll agree--a design feature that has utility. Shade, yes, at least partially so your water lilies, if you have them especially, get enough sun to bloom, but even if you don't, there's still ways to keep algae and heat down, so 'shading' is more a choice, to me.

So I get why these issues are YOUR issues, but a lot of pond design has to take into account the ponder and what they want to do with it afterwards. Bad construction/design is just that; bad, and we all have to face that 'fix it' moment in the future.


The largest regret I(ME) had with my first build was not knowing about the shallow shelf for the perimeter rocks/deco. Fixing this is a lot harder later, than just providing for it initially. The second was not making my bog v1 large enough (should have made it twice the size) and then having to fix this problem when I expanded. Like a lot of peeps, I came from the aquarium world and natural solutions weren't something I ever thought of. A filter was some sort of box with a way to push/pull water into it and there was a pad to be cleaned and some biomaterial to help. So I looked at a Skippy until I ran across a professional's web page showing a 'bog filter' setup. I got lucky and leaned that way, to my good fortune, but because I'm landlocked, I didn't have enough room, or I should say, I didn't give it enough room which meant less patio--which I should have done.

BTW, theres a sticky thread with a WHOLE LOTTA suggestions already in place; not that we can't rehash and discuss here, too; good to remind us all what went wrong and how much smarter we are now!
 

addy1

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Geez I have no step, bog wall shelf is about 1.5 feet down and narrow, they never use it. But herons get fish every time they come by. They walk the edge, straight drop to 5 feet down and snag a fish. The shallow walk out end is a obvious entry, but they usually ignore it and go for the deep end walls. I have them on video at the deep 5.5 ft end catching fish.

I have no shade on our ponds, full sun from sunrise to sunset. Enough water flow to keep it in the 85f range during the summer and deep. We do get hot, a ton of days mid to high 90's.
 

TheFishGuy

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I wish I would have done many things differently, so here are a few:

Mainly I wish I would have has a better plan before I started building. That could have helped me avoid several headaches I am still trying to solve.

I wish I had allowed more space for a waterfall, they take up a really large footprint!

Other than that, if I had ordered the right sized liner it would have been very helpful...
 
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Geez I have no step, bog wall shelf is about 1.5 feet down and narrow, they never use it. But herons get fish every time they come by. They walk the edge, straight drop to 5 feet down and snag a fish. The shallow walk out end is a obvious entry, but they usually ignore it and go for the deep end walls. I have them on video at the deep 5.5 ft end catching fish.

I have no shade on our ponds, full sun from sunrise to sunset. Enough water flow to keep it in the 85f range during the summer and deep. We do get hot, a ton of days mid to high 90's.
guess your pond doesn't make the cut, Boss; better crank that Kubota up and start fillin' in....heh heh:eek::oops::rolleyes::cool:;)
 
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Flex PVC. For me, a massive mistake. It began to leak under the stone work and I couldn't get to it so all piping had to be rerouted outside of the stone flooring with regular pvc pipe. No issues since but never EVER if you can avoid it have piping that you cannot dig easily to get at.
There are unfortunately several differe

FIRSTLY THERE IS WHAT BY DEFININITION WOULD MAKE FOLKS THINK IT IS THE BETTER CALLED kINK FREE....IN MY OPIMON THIS IS GARBARGE

The second type is flex pvc but while it has a coil wrap in the pipe just like the kink free it DOES NOT have a deep ripples to it, the better of the two styles has a almost smooth texture to it .
.This is the Garbage for our purposes in my opinion pictured below .

HTB15LipHXXXXXbfXXXXq6xXFXXXu__66808.1473260738.jpg


And this is the best picture i could find below of flex pvc that is worth the money in my book amke sure you click on the two sample photos

 
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cas

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Mainly I wish I would have has a better plan before I started building. That could have helped me avoid several headaches I am still trying to solve.

I thought I had a plan. Ha. I have spent the remaining years adjusting things to compensate for things I overlooked. Live and learn!
 
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I have to disagree with your assessment of flex PVC.
If installed properly it will last decades or more.
Since its flexible to an extent, it won't crack open when full of frozen water. Ridgid PVC however, may crack under those circumstances.

I would guess your flex PVC was not installed correctly. Maybe it wasn't primed and glued properly or it was not the correct primer or glue.
Maybe it was glued to a ridgid PVC fitting and that fitting cracked.

That "kink free" hose that @GBBUDD showed is indeed garbage. The inside is not smooth and it will spring leaks within months.
 
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Oh, back on subject.

And @brokensword will like this ;).....

The ultimate best thing I have done for me and my pond was adding a bog filter.
I wish I would have built the bog when I built the pond. I wouldn't have wasted so much money and time fussing with inadequate store bought filters and UV lights.
 
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Oh, back on subject.

And @brokensword will like this ;).....

The ultimate best thing I have done for me and my pond was adding a bog filter.
I wish I would have built the bog when I built the pond. I wouldn't have wasted so much money and time fussing with inadequate store bought filters and UV lights.
PREACH it, Bro!! :p:cool:
 
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I wish we had known about intake bays. We have a skimmer free pond with a negative edge which we love, but an intake bay has some advantages over the negative edge style - namely ease of cleaning. It's far easier to scoop leaves out when they're floating on top of water vs laying wet on top of a gravel bed.

Other than that, I would say "make it bigger" but we built it as big as we could for our lot size. I wish our rain exchange was bigger, but we built the patio first, so that was also a physical constraint.

OH! I KNOW! Use HIGH QUALITY BALL VALVES! The cheaper ones are useless. The handles dry out in the sun and crack, leaving you with no way to turn the handle. The good ones have removable handles and are much easier to turn from the get-go!
 
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I would have built this 20 years ago . 30 if I had acted when I first thought about building a pond. This was right after learning about how to work rubber roofing
 

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