waterfall specs analysis

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Continued from another thread (sorry Paul!), I was wondering if one can quantify the effects of waterfalls on the entire system, mostly in the area of aeration. Meyer has posted that a stream is better (basing this on moving surface-to-air contact area, I assume) and has noted various types of waterfall, so I asked if one can determine how much re specs one can use numerical info to augment their situation, such as adding more surface area to a waterfall, which type(s) of waterfall, or making one higher, having more water out-flow, how fast, how slow, etc.

So, Meyer, have at it (and anyone else with thoughts re the subject), comparing said improvements/project with streams and other factors. I'm coming from a base of probably deep enough but not wide enough re surface area and looking for ways to improve the situation, wondering at the numbers vs effective response in aerating for both summer and winter.

Michael
 
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Tough to come up with numbers on this question, there are so many variables that could be different, like flow rate, depth, amount of drops, base material, width etc.

My stream which is very shallow in places (about 1" to a couple areas about 5") creates very nice aeration due to the speed of the water flowing over the stones under the water and also the water hitting and going around the large stones above the water. I have about 6500gph flowing thru my stream which starts out at 22" and finishes at 6ft wide with about 5ft of actual water hitting the pond with a 8" to 10"drop. It is also 19ft long. Depending on the filter setup you could add aeration to the bio filter directly just before it exits into the stream also.

In my opinion I think shallower and wider with good flow with a gravel bed to create turbulence along the flow works best for aeration.

I see the aeration bubbles make it about 3/4 across my pond due to the pull of the skimmer, with that said, I still use aeration at the far end of the pond where I feel there is not that much.

I have no official specs sorry but just observation

Great question and I hope there is some great responses.
 
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I don't have anything scientific to add to this, I just like pretty streams and waterfalls. Haha!

Actually I do remember reading some information on streams and learning that one way to increase aeration in a stream is to create areas of resistance - large rocks placed closer together in spots to create smaller spaces that the water has to force it's way through. We added a small stream (really small, less than 4 feet long) to our pond and play around with that idea by moving rocks around to change the look and sound of the water as it moves through the stream. We also placed a few rocks in the waterfall to do the same thing. You can dramatically alter the affect of a waterfall by moving just a few stones.

Water is fun y'all!
 

Meyer Jordan

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As RobAmy and Lisak1 have pointed out, the key to oxygenating water is exposed surface area. Whether this is attained by actual size of the pond or through supplemental movement of water (turbulence) or a combination, the end result is the same.....Oxygen is added to the water column.
You have inquired as to numerical specs or formulae, Brokensword, for determining the results obtained through the use of different methods. These formulae do exist and I would be glad to supply links to them, but these are very complicated formulae used by engineers and would likely be of no practical use to the average person.
Instead I would like to discuss the nature of Oxygen and its relation to water.
As with any aspect of a pond, the subject of Oxygen should be looked at from many points of view. Everything in a pond is to some degree connected to everything else.
In air, Oxygen accounts for 20.9% of the total volume with most of the remainder being Nitrogen. This translates in 209 mg/L of Oxygen. The Oxygen bearing capacity of water is largely determined by temperature.
Oxygen chart.jpg

As can be seen in the above chart, the highest saturation level is attained at the freezing point of water...~14 mg/L Comparing this to the 209 mg/L present and available in the atmosphere, it can be quickly seen that water is not very efficient at absorbing Oxygen. Roughly 7% of available Oxygen at its highest capacity and only about 3% on a typical summer day.
Fortunately Nature has provided its aquatic creatures the ability to survive and flourish at these seemingly low levels.
The rate of absorption of Oxygen by water of the diffusion of Oxygen to water is primarily regulated by temperature and atmospheric pressure. At low temperatures and high atmospheric pressure more Oxygen will enter the water. Conversely, at high temperatures and low atmospheric pressures less Oxygen will enter the water. Ponds located at sea level will have a higher Oxygen carrying capacity than ponds at higher elevations.
Absorption/diffusion Of Oxygen is also influenced by the surface area of the body of water and by the current Oxygen saturation of same body of water.
The amount of water surface area available the more Oxygen will be absorbed/diffused. Much like a rain catchment system, the larger the surface area of the catchment basin the more rain water will be captured.
This available surface area can be augmented by creating turbulence. In Nature on large ponds and lakes this is accomplished by wind. In a Garden Pond, although wind may be a factor, turbulence is usually created by waterfalls, streams, aerators and even the fish. The water in the immediate vicinity of some of these may become super-saturated with Oxygen. This quickly spreads to the surrounding water column or is off-gassed.
Although absorption/diffusion is an important source of Oxygen, the majority of the Oxygen existing in a pond will naturally be created by the photosynthetic process of algae. For those Pondkeepers that abhor the presence of any algae growth, supplemental oxygenation through turbulence may a necessity.
One final thought. Water depth. This has been touched on in another thread on this Forum, but it is important to mention that Oxygen content in water decreases as depth increases. Outside of Wintertime, this is usually not an issue if the pond contains Koi and/or Goldfish; both of which are notorious in their ability to survive at extremely low Oxygen levels.
 
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RobAmy, Lisa, and Meyer; thank you for the responses!

Meyer, I can understand the complexity and appreciate your effort here to simplify. I didn't expect to go to engineering levels to augment, but I was curious, as prompted by your earlier comments in an earlier thread. One point you didn't address here is the type of waterfall; I'm assuming a sheet type is better than cascade (I think those were the two terms you used earlier)? Are there other 'forms'? And how much does 'height/distance water travels before entering the pond' affect the effectiveness? I'm just curious, is all. One possible project I was thinking of doing re streams is to take some of my waterfall output and divert it to a second, but narrow, stream (being enclosed, I'm limited to how much real estate I have left to work with) and wondered if something narrow would actually do that much good?

Re the oxygen given off by algae; I have a small amount of anachris that I thought also contributed to oxygenation; is this so? And are there 'better' algae types (I'm thinking macro here) that are more beneficial than others? Something that can co-habitate with the fish and other plants without taking over? I know there is such re saltwater environments.

Anyway, I thank you for furthering the discussion as it's been interesting!

Michael
 

Meyer Jordan

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RobAmy, Lisa, and Meyer; thank you for the responses!

Meyer, I can understand the complexity and appreciate your effort here to simplify. I didn't expect to go to engineering levels to augment, but I was curious, as prompted by your earlier comments in an earlier thread. One point you didn't address here is the type of waterfall; I'm assuming a sheet type is better than cascade (I think those were the two terms you used earlier)? Are there other 'forms'? And how much does 'height/distance water travels before entering the pond' affect the effectiveness? I'm just curious, is all. One possible project I was thinking of doing re streams is to take some of my waterfall output and divert it to a second, but narrow, stream (being enclosed, I'm limited to how much real estate I have left to work with) and wondered if something narrow would actually do that much good?

Re the oxygen given off by algae; I have a small amount of anachris that I thought also contributed to oxygenation; is this so? And are there 'better' algae types (I'm thinking macro here) that are more beneficial than others? Something that can co-habitate with the fish and other plants without taking over? I know there is such re saltwater environments.

Anyway, I thank you for furthering the discussion as it's been interesting!

Michael

I am sorry that I didn't make the point clearer, that being the more turbulence the more water surface area is exposed, the more Oxygen is absorbed/diffused. Bottom line-Increased water turbulence = increased Oxygen levels.
Actually at identical flow rates, a cascade type waterfall will provide more oxygenation than a sheet type. The greater the height from which water falls the greater the turbulence it creates.
A narrow stream will, of course oxygenate the water. How much it will contribute will be determined by how much surface area it will add, percentage-wise to the entire surface area of the pond, including other streams and/or waterfalls. If you think that it will add to the visual appeal of the water feature, by all means include it. It certainly won't hurt.
Oxygenating plants do provide oxygen, but trail a distant second to algae in production.
All of the Macro-algae are salt water specie with a few native to brackish (0.05+% salinity) water.
Algae will only 'take over' if there are ample nutrients to support its growth.
 

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