UV lights

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I know this is going to sound really stupid but I won't know if I don't ask.

I currently have a 13 watt uv and it is not getting th job done so I am going to upgrade. If I understand this correctly, the uv can handle 1800 gph going through the light. So, if that is the case should I be purchasing a large enough uv that will handle the 3200 gph pump that I have?

I was considering buying a 20 watt.

Any input will be appreciated.
 
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You need a Y divertor with quarter turn vales on each output and slow your flow through your uv. Your uv is probably not too small just too fast of flow through it.
 
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pondmaster could be onto something here. You need to first figure out if your UV is good enough.

1. Did you change the UV bulb this spring? If not, replace it.

2. UV's tend to need what's called a by-pass as Pondmaster describes above. If the water passes too quickly in a UV, then it can't do it's job properly. So, you need to bypass some of your water so that only some of it goes through the UV. You could do it very simply, for example putting in a ball valve to pinch the water back a bit and slow it so that it is able to dwell in the UV a bit more time. Or you could get elaborate and build a UV by-pass like I just did. This means you split the flow and some of it goes through your UV and the rest travels out to wherever you want (like a waterfall or whatever).

Here's a picture of one I found on the internet. Mine is very similar.

ByPass.jpg
 
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Thanks KoiKeepr, I purchased an Oase Y divertor for about $15 plus shipping it's very well made.
Also we might add that your flow should be below recommended maximum.
 
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Hey everyone.

Koikeeper, does a UV bulb need to be changed each year? Mine was purchased last summer so is relatively new. I have been having far more pea souplike water but assumed it was seasonal. I checked me UV yesterday and it seemed o.k.

DoDad, I know you suggested on another post that someone(can't remember who) change their bulb. Do they seriously have this short a lifespan?
Thanks.
BR
 
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I change my bulbs every spring, yes. If you leave your UV on all the time (which I do), you need to change 'em. Some folks use them sporadically and shut 'em down, in this case you may get two seasons out of them. UV's start dimming from the moment you start using 'em.

Just because you check 'em and see the purple glow, doesn't mean that it's still viable. They will glow until burnout point..it's just how effective they are as they get older.

Again, if you check it by slowing down the water flow going past it and you still notice green water then it's only one of two things: a) bulb is no longer effective or :) your bulb wattage isn't high enough in general and you need a bigger UV. You've got to choose what you are willing to invest in: new bulb or new whole unit.
 
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I will be purchasing a new UV light totally because my filter houses my UV and I am going to TRY and ATTEMPT at building a skippy filter.

any recommendations of what size UV I need? I did hear a Pondmaster was a pretty good one for the money.
 
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I can't imagine that a 40 watt wouldn't do the job. Technically, most 40's say they handle 2900-3000. I think you'd be alright. Will set you back $200-300 though..atleast it did me.
 

koiguy1969

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i use a tetrapond 9 watt u.v on my 1200 gal pond...and put 1200 gph thru it, via a tetrapond 1200 gph pump ...works exremely well...got it all at LOWES.
 
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How many watts you need and how long the bulb will last both depend on the type of bulb. Not all UV's are created equal. All manufacturers should give you guidelines on gph, total pond volume, and pond surface area. The manufacturers of the better equipment also will give you a chart showing how performance degrades over time. The ones that don't want to answer this question (Savio) are probably using a technology that doesn't hold up as well. Of course, you always have to take product claims with a little salt, but it's counterproductive to make wild claims for UV clarifiers because it's very obvious when the UV isn't doing the job.
 

jethro13

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I constructed my bipass the same way with one exception. I have just the one valve at the top of the picture between the inlet and outlet. From what I can see the other two valves are completely unnessary because I use the one valve to adjust the amount of water I want to flow through the light
 

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