Just finishing up the waterfall/stream. It was much more work than I had anticipated !
Anyway, at present I have no real filtration save the pond itself. However have only a few goldfish. I am considering adding a bog for even clearer water.
I have read many of the threads related to bog filters. In addition Nelson's Water Garden's has a nice write up on bog construction:
https://nelsonwatergardens.com/gravel-bog-filter-construction/
Seems like most advocate a depth of 12 inches. Others say go deeper. Much of the Everglades is bog and it is fore sure deeper than 12 inches ?
Some recommend water level just above gravel while some say water level just below gravel..
Most seem to advocate 3/8 pea gravel while others recommend a variety of substrate sizes.
Some say SLOW flow while others recommend rapid turnover.
I suppose we all have opinions like we all have certain parts of anatomy but any consensus here on my favorite forum?
In the end I suppose they will all work to some degree.
2 major questions if I do construct a bog:
1. I have several mesh bags full of bio balls. Any reason I cannot or should not lay them down below the gravel. They are paid for and just sitting in the garage.
2. Of greater concern I have read a couple of posts on other forums which claim a bog will for sure fail at some point. Here is a case in point:
WILL A BOG FAIL DOWN THE ROAD IF CLEANED OUT SAY ONCE A YEAR?
Lastly: What is the formula to calculate so called "dwell time" or should I just ignore this concept and have water flow through the bog and adjust as I see decline or improvement.
Thanks.
Anyway, at present I have no real filtration save the pond itself. However have only a few goldfish. I am considering adding a bog for even clearer water.
I have read many of the threads related to bog filters. In addition Nelson's Water Garden's has a nice write up on bog construction:
https://nelsonwatergardens.com/gravel-bog-filter-construction/
Seems like most advocate a depth of 12 inches. Others say go deeper. Much of the Everglades is bog and it is fore sure deeper than 12 inches ?
Some recommend water level just above gravel while some say water level just below gravel..
Most seem to advocate 3/8 pea gravel while others recommend a variety of substrate sizes.
Some say SLOW flow while others recommend rapid turnover.
I suppose we all have opinions like we all have certain parts of anatomy but any consensus here on my favorite forum?
In the end I suppose they will all work to some degree.
2 major questions if I do construct a bog:
1. I have several mesh bags full of bio balls. Any reason I cannot or should not lay them down below the gravel. They are paid for and just sitting in the garage.
2. Of greater concern I have read a couple of posts on other forums which claim a bog will for sure fail at some point. Here is a case in point:
IF you REALLY BELIEVE THIS, I have some land I'd love you to see that I'm trying to sell!lol
You guys crack me up! You're all trying to do this, that and the other thing and think or are trying to convince yourself it will work. I've been around this hobby for over 45 years and I've seen all this type of stuff before. Most all of it is gone now, because either the owner grew older and couldn't shovel sh$t anymore or all the fish died and the owners filled in the pond. What these bogs filters/gravel filters are trying to mimic is Mother Nature. Where they fall short is that they are not incorporated into an open flow system such as a natural river/stream. They are integrated into a closed system, which by it's very nature, constantly recirculates the same water over and over again. So, the nutrients continue to build/break down creating an anaerobic system. Some folks think this the inexpensive way or the more "natural" way of filtering water, but they really don't have a clue what they're talking about as they've never dealt with the system after 1-2 years and then trying to clean it.
Those snorkels and centipedes from Aquascape DO NOT allow you to clean out the mulm that collects in the gravel placed all around them. Even bioballs in bags won't come clean. The only thing you might be able to clean would be the centipede itself, but everything else around/above it will still have sediment, organics, waste stuck inside it. Even those matrix boxes are a problem. We just finished mucking one these "upper pond/gravel filters" out last Friday. It was installed 1 year ago and was the ONLY so-called filtration installed when the pond was built. Overall, the pond itself, at first glance, appears to be beautifully done. The rock work in the waterfall is really nice. I won't tell you what I think of all the rock INSIDE the pond, oh, and the "koi caves" that were built into the rocked in walls when built! What a disaster. See my previous post about mucking this filter out.
But, alas, you can lead the innocent/unsuspecting newbie around by the ring in their nose and the string attached to their wallets, but you can't keep 'em from drinking the Koolaid! BTW, loco4koi, that "pond builder" should be taken out and shot at sunset! He has no clue what a real, properly functioning pond needs to stay clean and healthy. These guys are taught by Aquascapes Designs in structured classes. The MOST IMPORTANT ITEM they are constantly being told during the seminars is, "Get in, Get out, and GET PAID"! I am quoting the EXACT words of a seminar instructor from Aquascape that my partner attending while learning how to build a pondless waterfall back in 2004! It still is being taught TODAY!
So, believe what you want, and enjoy mucking around in some rather unhealthy situations as long as you're young. You won't be doing is when your first Social Security check arrives, I'll guarantee you that!!!
Mike
WILL A BOG FAIL DOWN THE ROAD IF CLEANED OUT SAY ONCE A YEAR?
Lastly: What is the formula to calculate so called "dwell time" or should I just ignore this concept and have water flow through the bog and adjust as I see decline or improvement.
Thanks.