spring start up problems—help needed

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I use it on sick fish people bring me after there ponds fail .I help them get there ponds working right and after i get there fish healthy and returned to there pond safe and healthy .So far in 4 years with this stuff i have not lost any peoples fish yet and some come to me pretty sick .

Very good! Very nice of you !!! You have a separate quarantine setup for friends and neighbors :) ... It's an old tried and true med that's been around quite sometime. Have to watch for ammonia spikes after using it if I recall as it can reduce the BB in the system!
 

sissy

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Have tested constantly after using it but have never had ammonia spike and even PH has never spiked which i expected something from using it .The last people came an hour away with a tote of fish in the back of there truck .I returned them the proper way after getting there pond and now filter running properly and teaching them a little .They thought they did not need a filter and had water that smelled terrible and tested even worse .Now they have clean water and healthy fish and sure hope this listen to me .I told them to come on here but have not seen them yet .
 
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I've always trusted the pond shop owner in the past, and I would have no fish left alive if it weren't for him. He looked at pictures of the fish and listened to my description of the symptoms. The medication says it's very low key and safe, and won't affect bio filtration. Pond has been cycling for 3-ish weeks now, so still very new. The medication also treats fish lice. As for costia, they definitely have some symptoms, but are not lethargic or respiring heavily.

How did you ever make out with the Cyropro ? If you find no results and I'm not sure you will, check this out! You didn't have anchor worm which is what I believe you're medicating for with Cyropro.
I was re-reading your posts and symptoms and Trichodina popped in my head. You might want to read this.

Trichodina in Koi Fish
The Trichodina koi parasite is another of the microscopic pests that sometimes attack our pet koi fish. Generally speaking, Trichodina alone will not kill your koi; rather it damages the skin and gills of the fish which can lead to bacterial infections. However, these secondary bacterial infections are notorious for death loss in koi collections. Instead of piercing the skin to locate and feed on blood like so many other parasites, the Trichodina dine on bacteria in the pond water. It uses the koi as merely a place of residence, all the while inflicting damage to the skin and gills of the host as it spins and gyrates continually. The constant revolving motion is extremely irritating and causes damage to the fish’s protective coating, the slime coat. As the slime coat becomes compromised bacterial infections will take hold resulting in sores and ulcers.

If you are looking through a microscope at an organism that is round with tiny hairs radiating outward from its edge then you’ve discovered an adult Trichodina parasite. It looks very similar to the typical yellow sunshine on children’s artwork. Trichodina is saucer shaped and has tiny cilia, or hairs reaching outward. The cilia enable the parasite to propel its self around. The cilia are also used for suction to the host. Trichodina parasite is in constant motion, continually spinning in a circular pattern. With its constant revolving motion it can travel quickly all over the body of the host. Trichodina fish parasites are able to swim freely from fish to fish, too. Incidentally, Trichodina will also adhere to invertebrates and common amphibians such as frogs and toads.

These tiny parasitic organisms can even live in dirt or mulm that accumulates on the pond floor, or in an overly dirty filter. Trichodina parasite on koi is closely associated with poorly maintained filtration systems and poor water quality environments. Trichodina does not dine on your koi fish; instead it feeds on the bacteria in the water. Ponds with high bacterial loads provide abundant food and the ideal environment for Trichodina to flourish.

Trichodina parasites have a simple direct life cycle. They reproduce by binary fission, literally cell-splitting. This produces daughter cells that mature in a matter of days, will be free-swimming and eager to attach to a host within 24 hours.
 
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They haven't been flashing anymore, but that could be because I haven't been feeding them...I don't know. Trichodina sounds like any option. I've also noticed a sick frog in the pond.
 
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Have tested constantly after using it but have never had ammonia spike and even PH has never spiked which i expected something from using it .The last people came an hour away with a tote of fish in the back of there truck .I returned them the proper way after getting there pond and now filter running properly and teaching them a little .They thought they did not need a filter and had water that smelled terrible and tested even worse .Now they have clean water and healthy fish and sure hope this listen to me .I told them to come on here but have not seen them yet .

Sissy, What is the proper way? Is it bagged, with O2? I've only moved fish short distances ( down the street ), so have used totes in the past.
 
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They haven't been flashing anymore, but that could be because I haven't been feeding them...I don't know. Trichodina sounds like any option. I've also noticed a sick frog in the pond.

I don't know anything about frogs but if they stopped flashing, it's either from the Cyropro or from
stopping food. If your ammonia and nitrites are staying at 0, you might want to feed them. If they start flashing, it becomes somewhat obvious it could be food related. You might want to change food brands. Finish the medication treatment. I haven't read the directions for how long or how many treatments are involved. Then try feeding or try now.

What brand food is it ?
 

sissy

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I have a stock tank and the back of the truck has an outlet that i plug my small aerator into and I clamp window screening over the top .But ponddigger said the easiest way is to put each one in a bag and then put the fish in the bag inside a large tote .He said it is easier that way .I found a tank also at a house auction that had a clamp on lid with holes in the lid .I use that to take tadpoles and frogs away
 

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I have a stock tank and the back of the truck has an outlet that i plug my small aerator into and I clamp window screening over the top .But ponddigger said the easiest way is to put each one in a bag and then put the fish in the bag inside a large tote .He said it is easier that way .I found a tank also at a house auction that had a clamp on lid with holes in the lid .I use that to take tadpoles and frogs away
-
The bag system works only if you have a supply of Oxygen with which to fill the bag before sealing it.
 

sissy

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true and any good air pump would work for that .I have not tried the bags for that since I have this set up and it works for me .
 

sissy

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But for short runs it is sufficient .I would never be able to ship a fish and have never bought fish that have to be shipped .But what i do now works with the tank and aerator and cheaper than buying bags to transport .They may rock and roll a little but they make it there .Most of the fish are smaller ones .So far none have been bigger than 6 inch's .Never traveled more than an hour away .
 
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The food is just a wheat germ brand. I'll check the exact brand when I get home. I guess I'll check ammonia and try feeding a little if it's at 0. I can't wait until medication is over to feed them because it's a 3 week trial with doses added every 7 days. But if I feed I have to keep it minimal. They stopped asking for food for the most part, though I occasionally see them waiting where I drop the food in.
 
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So I fed some Hikari Wheat Germ. They ate hungrily. 10 minutes later my biggest started flashing, yet continued swimming around looking for food.
 
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The food is just a wheat germ brand. I'll check the exact brand when I get home. I guess I'll check ammonia and try feeding a little if it's at 0. I can't wait until medication is over to feed them because it's a 3 week trial with doses added every 7 days. But if I feed I have to keep it minimal. They stopped asking for food for the most part, though I occasionally see them waiting where I drop the food in.

That is crazy! If after feeding, the ammonia was still at 0, I would change the food and see what happens. Depending on how long you've been feeding, you can mix some protein food in with a wheatgerm food now in May. I'm on Long Island and you said you're in the NorthEast so we probably have similar water temps. I'm at 62F and was as high as 70F when we had better sunnier weather.

SUGGESTION: Buy some Honey Nut Cheerios. Feed them that and see if they flash. Seriously! They'll love it. Should they not flash, it could tell you the Hikari batch might be bad.
 

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