Recommend DC pump?

[Mike H]

There are a million choices out there, I've tried the bilge pumps and they work great for awhile and then quit.
I also currently do not have a filter on my pond.
I do have a couple of blue plastic barrels and some 14" diameter pvc to construct a filter system but don't know where to start.
I have 650 watts of solar and a battery bank with over 900 amp hours ready to run this pond and some other small loads.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Meyer Jordan]

The important goal here is that the pump can produce a high enough flow rate to sufficiently support the pond. Larger DC pumps can get quite expensive.
What is the total capacity of your pond (in gallons) and do you have fish?
Ideally, you would want a flow rate of twice the total pond capacity per hour i.e. pond capacity is of 1000 gallons would require a pump with a 2000 gph rating.

 

[peter hillman]

Or, two 1000gph pumps.

 

[morewater]

Bilge pumps (marine application) are much like sump pumps in that they're designed for intermittent use, not constant use. Bilge pumps simply won't work. I would recommend that you abandon the idea of using DC and figure out a way to bring AC to where you need a pump to operate. You can use your DC to power an aerator, which will require less draw to pump air than it will to raise x feet of head of water. Again, as you were advised, determine the total volume of the pond and then pick a pump that will move twice the volume of the pond per hour (don't forget to add in the decreased pump volume as you move water "up"). With short vertical rises, this isn't really a big deal.

As to the materials you have on hand for the construction of a bio-filter, look up "Skippy Filter Construction", than add a few of your own modification to suit your needs, application, location, etc. The basic principal is all that needs to be adhered to (English teacher said never to end a sentence in "to", screw her).

 

[Mike H]

The important goal here is that the pump can produce a high enough flow rate to sufficiently support the pond. Larger DC pumps can get quite expensive.
What is the total capacity of your pond (in gallons) and do you have fish?
Ideally, you would want a flow rate of twice the total pond capacity per hour i.e. pond capacity is of 1000 gallons would require a pump with a 2000 gph rating.

 

[Mike H]

Capacity is 400 us gallons and,yes we have goldffish and mosquito fish

 

[Mike H]

Bilge pumps (marine application) are much like sump pumps in that they're designed for intermittent use, not constant use. Bilge pumps simply won't work. I would recommend that you abandon the idea of using DC and figure out a way to bring AC to where you need a pump to operate. You can use your DC to power an aerator, which will require less draw to pump air than it will to raise x feet of head of water. Again, as you were advised, determine the total volume of the pond and then pick a pump that will move twice the volume of the pond per hour (don't forget to add in the decreased pump volume as you move water "up"). With short vertical rises, this isn't really a big deal.

As to the materials you have on hand for the construction of a bio-filter, look up "Skippy Filter Construction", than add a few of your own modification to suit your needs, application, location, etc. The basic principal is all that needs to be adhered to (English teacher said never to end a sentence in "to", screw her).

 

[Mike H]

I am wanting to stick with turning the pond over one time per hour-especially in the winter.
My filter location will not require a pump to raise the water more than a foot or so as the space available for barrels or.... Whatever Is right next to pond wall.
My first challenge is to remove particulates before they reach the pump while relying on gravity to move the water.
My thought is, having the return pump be in the last stage or section of the filter.

 

[MitchM]

Here is a DC pump that might interest you.
30 watt consumption

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/dc2500hp-apex-ready-dc-waveline.html

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