Phos level ok, virtually zero, why Algae?

[Rach]

My kit came and test just about looking like first colour so almost zero. I have taken the floating plants out as this is just smothered with algae. So how do I get rid of it if not phos levels? It grows to side of pots, on Lilly stems, rocks and all down my stream.

 

[MitchM]

Photo, Rach?

It could be cyanobacteria, not algae.

 

[Meyer Jordan]

My kit came and test just about looking like first colour so almost zero. I have taken the floating plants out as this is just smothered with algae. So how do I get rid of it if not phos levels? It grows to side of pots, on Lilly stems, rocks and all down my stream.

Which brand test are you using? What are the level values for each color? Phosphorus levels should be less than 0.05 mg/L. Ideally less than 0.04 mg/L.

 

[Rach]

It's Phosphate po by Ali. Here are some photos of it, just put in a bucket now in case can get rid ofmitmtomsave what little weed I have left which it is suffocating. It is also on the rocks and liner of the pool

 

[Meyer Jordan]

It's Phosphate po by Ali. Here are some photos of it, just put in a bucket now in case can get rid ofmitmtomsave what little weed I have left which it is suffocating. It is also on the rocks and liner of the pool

Your test results should look Yellow. Any hint of green indicates too much Phosphorus.

 

[Rach]

Photo, Rach?

It could be cyanobacteria, not algae.

I will do,the test again tomorrow, if anything it was the colour of the first one. Will,posts photos. Is it blanket algae from my photos or is it Cyanobacteria?

 

[Meyer Jordan]

That is, without question, filamentous algae.

 

[Rach]

That is, without question, filamentous algae.

Thanks have been reading up on it, rather annoyed that it seems I have my pond in too much sunlight. When I researched where a pond should be placed I read in at least 6 hrs sunlight now it seems the sun creates the algae.

Anyone used this stuff? I am in 2 minds just to,leave it and continue removing as I have been.

On another forum someone said buying marsh marigolds helped,them in early spring so I shall make a note for next year.

 

[MitchM]

I would just keep removing it for now.
How much do you feed your fish, Rach?

 

[Meyer Jordan]

Thanks have been reading up on it, rather annoyed that it seems I have my pond in too much sunlight. When I researched where a pond should be placed I read in at least 6 hrs sunlight now it seems the sun creates the algae.

Anyone used this stuff? I am in 2 minds just to,leave it and continue removing as I have been.

On another forum someone said buying marsh marigolds helped,them in early spring so I shall make a note for next year.

I would stay away from that algae treatment.
If your prior test results are accurate, it is quite possible that the filamentous algae has already assimilated the greater part of the Phophorus. In this case, manual removal is recommended. Any of this algae that remains in the pond and dies/decays will only release the Phosphorus back into the water column to repeat the algae growth cycle.
Sunlight will boost algae growth, but only if the algae has something to feed on.

 

[DrellDrell]

I would stay away from that algae treatment.
If your prior test results are accurate, it is quite possible that the filamentous algae has already assimilated the greater part of the Phophorus. In this case, manual removal is recommended. Any of this algae that remains in the pond and dies/decays will only release the Phosphorus back into the water column to repeat the algae growth cycle.
Sunlight will boost algae growth, but only if the algae has something to feed on.

I am interested in this thread as my newly setup pond has greenish water yet phosphate levels are only 0.5 ppm. Trying to prevent the type of algae that Rach has now. You mentioned sunlight will boost algae growth if the algae has something to feed on. Is phosphate the main "feeder' for algae? Are plants the best "competitor" for algae to eliminate its food source?

Background - Pond was setup on 06/06; 3 fish about 4-5" added (comets/shubunkin) added on 06/14; added 3 water lettuce, 3 water hyacinth, and 1 marginal plant on 06/14; added two small lilys and a king tut in the last week; did a 25% water change several days ago. Ammonia and Nitrites at 0 PPM. My skimmer filter is tinged green from all the algae in the water. Though the water is starting to clear slightly. May do another water change in the next day or so, but will first test the phosphate levels on my tap water. My pond is western facing, but still receives about 8 hours of sun daily. Not a lot of shade. Thinking about adding more shading with foam insulation panels wrapped in pond liner and burlap.

We have also had a ton of rain lately. Like 10" in the last two weeks.

 

[Meyer Jordan]

I am interested in this thread as my newly setup pond has greenish water yet phosphate levels are only 0.5 ppm. Trying to prevent the type of algae that Rach has now. You mentioned sunlight will boost algae growth if the algae has something to feed on. Is phosphate the main "feeder' for algae? Are plants the best "competitor" for algae to eliminate its food source?

Background - Pond was setup on 06/06; 3 fish about 4-5" added (comets/shubunkin) added on 06/14; added 3 water lettuce, 3 water hyacinth, and 1 marginal plant on 06/14; added two small lilys and a king tut in the last week; did a 25% water change several days ago. Ammonia and Nitrites at 0 PPM. My skimmer filter is tinged green from all the algae in the water. Though the water is starting to clear slightly. May do another water change in the next day or so, but will first test the phosphate levels on my tap water. My pond is western facing, but still receives about 8 hours of sun daily. Not a lot of shade. Thinking about adding more shading with foam insulation panels wrapped in pond liner and burlap.

We have also had a ton of rain lately. Like 10" in the last two weeks.

Although all algae requires both, Phosphorus is the limiting nutrient for Filamentous algae and Nitrate is the limiting nutrient for all other algae. This means that if the limiting nutrient is not available at sufficient levels the respective algae will not flourish.
A Phosphorus level of 0.5 is entirely too high. This level should not exceed 0.05 ppm or mg/L.
You Ammonia and Nitrite levels may be 0.00, but what is the Nitrate level. Anything over 20 mg/L is problematic.
A pond requires at least 6 hours of sunlight daily to remain healthy. Instead of limiting the trigger required for photsynthesis (sunlight), control the nutrients available.

 

[DrellDrell]

Beyond waiting for the pond to create its own natural defenses and beneficial bacteria, what is the best way to deal with the phosphate now? Water changes? I prefer to stay away from chemicals. I will have to by the Nitrate test; it was not included in the test kit.

 

[Rach]

Thanks for the advice, I will,keep removing, it is hard though as it just keeps,coming back! Have removed all,the top,floating stuff so,now a case,ofmremovimgmoff pots and rocked and Lilly stems.,I could,do,it all,day!

Good to,hear my pond is not in the wrong position imwasmgetting really stressed about that! Having such clear water because of uv filter enables me to,see everything so can see the Algae!

 

[Lisak1]

I think @Meyer Jordan makes a point that many people miss - if you kill the algae and allow the dead algae to stay in the pond, you are adding to the problem. If you have a lot of string algae, you should remove as much as possible by hand NO MATTER what else you do. Many people think they can avoid manual removal by using a chemical treatment - you only exacerbate the problem by doing so.

Also, the algae is frequently SOLVING your problem - so while it is a symptom of something you should address, treat the problem and the algae will go away on it's own.