PH level

[gardenlady]

I started testing my water recently after having built the pond a lot larger and adding more fish. The ammonia, nitrite and nitrates continue to be zero. The PH color is a light royal blue which is not on the color chart and the PH High test the first time was 8.4. After loosing a small fish last week *that makes two in about three weeks..both new fish to the pond*, I did the test again and everything was exactly the same except the PH High test was 8.2 now which is still higher than recommended. I purchased the Correct PH today and put the entire 16.9 oz around the perimeter of the pond. I'm wondering how long it would take to show a result and if I really needed to add it. It says to use monthly as a maintenance for the water and wonder if anyone else does that. Another question is related to algae on the waterfall and wonder if you all remove it, scrap it into the pond or use a product to remove it (*picture below). This is thicker than the algae in the bog which washes away in the rain.

 

[gardengimp]

What is the pH of the water out of your tap? The thing you want with pH is sameness. You don't want it swinging all over the place during different times of the day, or different weather conditions. You probably have a pH low test, and a pH high test. The pH low probably doesn't say low, but if you read the fine print it will max out at 7. something or another. There is nothing wrong with a pH of 8.4 or 8.2, provided it is that value all the time. Do tests in the early morning, late evening, raining and sunny and see what they are. If you are 8.2 and 8.4 all the time, leave well enough alone and keep your money.

As for the algae, it is probably your pond cycling. Best to not do anything, let it cycle.

 

[gardenlady]

Just tested the tap water and the PH is a light royal blue as it is from the pond, but the PH High for the tap water is 7.4 where the pond is 8.2. I will take samples tonight and three times tomorrow and see what the levels are.

 

[gardengimp]

Do you have a water softener system for the house? If so, check your water pH at an outside spigot.

 

[gardenlady]

Nope..no water softener

 

[HTH]

draw the water from the tap and check the ph, run an airstone in it for a day then check the ph again

 

[gardenlady]

Am I doing this because the PH high is so much lower from the tap?

 

[HTH]

Am I doing this because the PH high is so much lower from the tap?

The pH from the tap maybe effected by dissolved gases. The airstone will degas the water so you can see the true pH.

 

[gardenlady]

I went outside and tested the tap again and it actually looks like 8.2. It's a little hard to see the slight difference in hue between the first three on the chart..at least for me.

 

[crsublette]

Yep, carbon dioxide and likely other gases builds up in tap water and this is most likely why the tap water's pH is lower. To remove these gases, you simply just allow the water to aerate and, once done, then test the pH.

Your pH is fine. As ya talked about in your other thread, just make sure your KH level stays up above 200ppm or above 11 drops (or 15 drops as ya mentioned in your other thread is very good) and your pH will be fine.

Don't waste your money on those "correct pH" products. These pond store products almost always either have a phosphate ingredient in it (which contributes to algae growth) or a mineral ingredient such as calcium or baking soda (both you can get extremely cheaper than those "correct pH" products). All of the other extra stuff in there is just the "foo foo" stuff to make ya feel better after using it.

 

[Dave 54]

Just tested the tap water and the PH is a light royal blue as it is from the pond, but the PH High for the tap water is 7.4 where the pond is 8.2. I will take samples tonight and three times tomorrow and see what the levels are.

Just wthin the upper range for koi they can take a range of Ph from Ph 7 - Ph 8'5 tops.

rgrds

Dave

 

[crsublette]

Gardenlady, don't let folk make you worry about the pH. The only thing that matters is that the pH remains stable and steady and not changing too much between dawn, mid-day, and dusk each day. Ultimately, your KH value gaurantees the pH's stability assuming your tap water is not soft (that is low in calcium). You will know if your calcium concentration is going lower if your pH starts to slowly and continually nudge above around 8.4~8.5 and, if your source water is sufficiently hard (with calcium), then simple water changes will fix this.

If the pH goes up to 9.0, then it's no problem as long as it is corrected within a few weeks. These more alkaline higher pHs essentially just "chaps" the koi's gills, where as the very low pHs (below 6) will burn them.

The japanese breeders across the ocean struggle immensely with keeping their pH above 6.0 in their greenhouses during the winter and do their best to keep the pH within the 6.5~7.0 range by using a ton of oyster shells (which apparently is in quite cheap and abundant supply over there).

 

[crsublette]

draw the water from the tap and check the ph, run an airstone in it for a day then check the ph again

That's good and also can add a faucet aerator to the garden hose.

From Home Depont, get a Laundry Faucet Adapter and 2.2 gpm dual thread slotted faucet aerator. This will very significantly aerate the water coming out of your garden hose and this will help to dissipate some carbon dioxide, other gases, and some chlorine (not chloramine). It's actually quite kool looking when adding water to the pond.

 

[gardengimp]

Hmm. I just use either a Dramm water breaker or when I'm not too rushed, a Dramm Fogg-It Mister (1 - 4 GPM). Plus, I already own them :cheerful:

 

[gardenlady]

Have to go looks those up just because I don't know what they are and I'm curious!