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Message: [QUOTE="capewind, post: 148530, member: 4510"] You and I are missing something in the communications here. In order to fairly test the water change theory, all variables need to be identical, with the exception of the item to be tested, which is the water changes. IF even the stocking levels were to differ, then it would bring into the question of the ability of the filters/biology, and not the merits associated with water changes. As the fish grow however, the loads on the systems will increase, as will the bacteria colony to combat the added load. Since the increase would be gradual, this would NOT result in an increase in ammonia, nor nitrites IF the filtration is doing its job. The question there will always be was there enough, and was it maintained. I am willing to bet that the tank that sees no water changes, but is otherwise maintained in our normal method will see no nitrite spikes at all, even if we continue the test for years... The main item I have to watch in the tanks is the PH, as our tap water is only at 7.0 ... in the aquariums, I do need to add a bit of crushed coral to maintain closer to 7.4 ... (in a 20-30 gallon tank it is a one time addition of half a cup)... Without the coral INSIDE, the PH varies 6.8 - 7.6 depending on which tank. Today, since we were setting up the two 20s, and we not only use the main ponds water, but were rearranging a few fish, tested all for PH, Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrates... I need a new KH/GH test kit still, so it has been a bit since those were tested. In every containment area (inside and outside), the ammonia and nitrites were ZERO. In the 30 and 55, they are 20 to less than 40. Oh, and the Phoshate was at zero in all but the 600, which has 75/80++++ plants, and that was at POINT 25. PH for the inside tanks/ponds were all 7.3-7.4 and outside was 7.3 (no coral). IF we get a lot of rain, outside will drop close to 7.0 but comes back up in 4-5 days. [/QUOTE]

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