My Biofilter Setup

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My biofilter is made from a pickle barrel. Inside the bottom is a platform/frame made of 1.5" PVC pipe. It's just a frame like a little table with no top. ON top of this a stainless steel grate with 1" squares. On top of this is a layer of two bags of lava rock, Next is 3 bags of 'drainage rock'.. On top of that is medium gravel. and on the very top is about 4 bags of pea gravel. A 3600 gph "Crystal Pond" submersible waterfall pump pushes the water from the bottom of the pond, underground about 24', through a check valve and into a shower drain in the bottom of the barrel. This goes into the little reservoir created by the PVC "table". Water is pushed upward through the gradually diminishing-sized rocks and into a larger reservoir at the top which allows solids to settle and only clear water to spill over into the return pipe at the top. At the inlet manifold, some of the water is diverted into a 1" pipe and passes through a 55w sterilizer. All pipes exit and return to the pond underground. BTW, I'm not finished with that nasty looking electrical wiring under he clarifier; will try to get that boxed up by this weekend. :) My pond is 13' x 8' x 3' deep. Thanks for looking.
 

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Thanks!
It keeps the pond crystal clear. I also found that it flows better and more quietly, virtually silent, with the lid sealed on. When I power it up, the pressure bows the lid up until the water begins to flow, then it does the opposite and creates a vacuum.
 

crsublette

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Yep, it is essentially a sand&gravel filter without a blower. Very nice setup.

Generally, any medium will grow diverse actors for biofiltration. I know of one prominent fella that replaced his expensive bead filters with a S&G type filters.

Depending on the pond, a S&G type filter, like one above, might create enough biodiversity to be a good biological filter.

Personally, if my pond lacked biodiversity, such as no plants, then a S&G would be a fine supplement to biological filtration although it also acts as a very nice polishing particulate filter.

I know in third world countries use filters with a similar concept, except obviously constructed different with a very slow flow rate, but the layering of materials as described above is quite similar to these devices to create clean drinking water, except there is also speciallized bacteria products used as well to biologically clean the water.

On my cell phone right so don't have my hyperlink library with, but it is quite interesting to read about.
 

JohnHuff

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His filter will be very different from S&G filters because he's putting bags of material into his barrel, meaning that water will flow around the area of most resistance to the area of least resistance, i.e. around the bags. I would consider this a skippy like filter with rocks/gravel rather than pads. It would not be a mechanical filter, but a upflow bio-filter, unless the different layers of material are tight and water must flow through them.

If your layers of material are tight, your design has the advantage of having the pea gravel on the top, which would be the one most necessary to clean. Congrats, it's a good design!

I have done extensive research on slow sand filters because I wanted to build better ones. I built a true S&G and 2 of my own design. The problem with the S&G is that every year or so, the muck has to be cleaned from the top layers. Some US cities have humongous ones to help clean their drinking water, but in 3rd world countries they're trying to set up small ones for villages to clean their drinking water. The cleaning action is from a top layer of Schmutzdecke.
 

crsublette

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JohnHuff said:
1) His filter will be very different from S&G filters because he's putting bags of material into his barrel, meaning that water will flow around the area of most resistance to the area of least resistance, i.e. around the bags. I would consider this a skippy like filter with rocks/gravel rather than pads. It would not be a mechanical filter, but a upflow bio-filter, unless the different layers of material are tight and water must flow through them.

If your layers of material are tight, your design has the advantage of having the pea gravel on the top, which would be the one most necessary to clean. Congrats, it's a good design!

2) I have done extensive research on slow sand filters because I wanted to build better ones. I built a true S&G and 2 of my own design. The problem with the S&G is that every year or so, the muck has to be cleaned from the top layers. Some US cities have humongous ones to help clean their drinking water, but in 3rd world countries they're trying to set up small ones for villages to clean their drinking water. The cleaning action is from a top layer of Schmutzdecke.

1) His filter will be very different from S&G filters because he's putting bags of material into his barrel, meaning that water will flow around the area of most resistance to the area of least resistance, i.e. around the bags. I would consider this a skippy like filter with rocks/gravel rather than pads. It would not be a mechanical filter, but a upflow bio-filter, unless the different layers of material are tight and water must flow through them.

The impression I have is the material are layered, not still in the bags, quite compact on top of each other exactly like a S&G.

Also, it would be a bit awkward if the pea gravel also was still in their bags in the filter and would be quite ineffective.

Of course, I definitely can be wrong!!


2) I have done extensive research on slow sand filters because I wanted to build better ones. I built a true S&G and 2 of my own design. The problem with the S&G is that every year or so, the muck has to be cleaned from the top layers. Some US cities have humongous ones to help clean their drinking water, but in 3rd world countries they're trying to set up small ones for villages to clean their drinking water. The cleaning action is from a top layer of Schmutzdecke.

Now that I am back home, off my cell phone, but gotta jet here again after this post.

Here's a very good example of a system I was talking about that is actually used in creating safe, clean drinking water. The Biosand Filter.

Not for sure what ya mean by a "true" S&G filter. The S&G filter mentioned for drinking water is a gravity flow system, that is functioning much like a reverse osmosis system. The S&G filters used for ponds are pump fed up-flow filters, that allows it to be easily maintained.

Now, in regards to the muck accumulations with S&Gs, this would be dependent on how often flushes are performed, which only take around 5 minutes dependent on how the system is designed. If allowed to operate without proper flushes, then I can see how there would be problems. Again, if the large particulates are properly pre-filtered and the S&Gs are properly blown out in a timely manner, then I bet a fella would never, or at least once every 5 years or so, have to dismantle the S&G, which is really not much different than a bog, except for the lack of plants. Heck, I bet an accumulation of some organics inside would be good to help fuel some denitrification.

Notice the acorns that pop out due to the cleaning process. ;)

[video]
 
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dieselplower said:
I am not sure the rocks are still in the bags.
OP, can you clarify if the rocks are still in the bags or if you were just telling us how many bags you emptied into the filter?
"bags" is just to give an idea of how much of each. The materials are all dumped in, loose, no bags in the tank.
 
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Thanks for the video! Nice setup!

Mine is designed so that I can connect an air hose at the bottom/inlet and flush out the gunk. Haven't done it yet, so don't know if it will work as good as a blower does. I had also thought of adding a layer of coarse sand on top of the pea gravel, but it hasn't been necessary yet.
 

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