little black dots

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My sagittaria, water lilies, and frog bits are all covered with little black dots (black bits on the frog bits!). Both sides of the leaves and I noticed some in the roots of the frog bits as well. I can wipe them off, but they return.
P1020655.jpg

My pond is a few months old, has some fish which have been there for about five weeks, and clear water. It is pumped from the pond through the bog which overflows into a stream and back into the pond. Also I notice that some of the marginals are getting quite yellow. Not enough nutrients? I used Mibrobe-Lift to get the nitrogen cycle going.

Could someone tell me what the black stuff is and what could be done? Any comments on yellowing foliage of the marginals would be appreciated too! Thank you!
 

Mmathis

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No idea, but it looks like some type of mold or mildew. I would have suggested "droppings" of some sort, but you say it's on the undersides and roots, as well. Maybe @addy1 @adavisus or @minnowman will know.

As Johan just suggested a better description and more close-up pics, I did try to zoom in on the pic you posted -- it almost looks like the black spots have legs! Could they be some kind of bug?
 

Mmathis

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Google "water lily pests" and see what you come up with. Without seeing yours in person, it would be only a guess, but I'm guessing aphids. And the solution is to hose them off the plants. Then the fish can eat the buggies.

Something I copied and pasted for you.....hope it helps.
____________________________________________________________
Q. I grow a lot of aquatic plants in my greenhouse throughout the year. They vary from submerged oxygenating plants to any type of water garden plant possible. My problem is with aphids on my water lettuce, salvinia and azolla. These black and sometimes greenish-brown intruders will usually cling to the leaves of these plants, feed off them, and then eventually cause them to die after months.

Is there any way to control these pests? Everyone I have asked says I should just use a high-pressure water sprayer to blast them off the leaves. Normal hose spray does not seem to work because somehow the aphids cling to the leaves. I would appreciate any help you can offer.

A. The pesky black bugs, which are well known to every water gardener, are indeed aphids — they are called blackfly aphids. These insects are easily transported on aquatic plants.

A few of these aphids arriving with newly purchased plants are essentially impossible to spot. They reproduce rapidly and quickly become a nuisance. If allowed to get out of control they will kill plants by sapping them of vital juices and then allowing bacterial and fungal invaders to enter the plant. Once they become established in a water garden they are virtually impossible to eradicate. They can, however, be controlled, and once controlled they pose no danger to plants.

First, these particular aphids apparently spend the cooler winter months on cherry trees, plum trees or other fruit trees in the vicinity. So, if you have some of these trees in or around your greenhouse you might consider using an oil spray over the winter to reduce the aphid population.

Second, if your aquatic plants are not part of a pond or other water feature harboring animals — especially fish, amphibians, reptiles or invertebrates — then you could use any one of a number of commercial insecticides, such as malathion. But think real hard about this option. Even the casual use of products like malathion can decimate local fauna. For example, any toads or tree frogs that might be in the vicinity of your greenhouse will most likely be wiped out after a few treatments. You will also kill off beneficial pollinating insects.

Increasingly, studies are showing that the larger effect of harming lots of other critters (unintended victims) will probably overshadow the effectiveness of using insecticides against the intended target — in this case, the aphids. The control of the aphid population and their detrimental effect on your plants can be accomplished in a more benign way.

I would suggest you stick with the tried and true high pressure water spray method. An ordinary adjustable nozzle for a standard garden hose should work just fine. Blast the bugs twice a day for a few days. Repeat the process every week and you should notice a reduction in both the presence of the aphids and the damage they cause. Small fish will eat aphids knocked into the water by the spray.

There are some non-toxic soap and oil sprays on the market that are very good in controlling aphids, and they can enhance the effect of the power wash. When used properly these will not harm non-aquatic critters in the vicinity. Check with local garden centers or mail order firms specializing in natural gardening. But again, do not use these if you have aquatic animals in the waters supporting your plants.
 

HARO

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As for the yellowing plants, this is usually caused by an iron deficiency. Try an aquatic fertilizer with chelated iron.
John
 
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Thanks for that suggestion, John. Most of the marginals that are yellowing are planted in the bog directly in gravel. The fertilizer I have on hand it Plantabbs Pondtabbs aquatic plant food. It says safe for use with fish when used as directed, but the directions are to press soil around the inserted tab to prevent the fertilizer from being released into the water. I think in the bog setting, the fertilizer would wash away. Not to mention that the iron in this one isn't chelated. Can you recommend a brand that would be suitable?
 
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Oops, I'm multi-tasking here. Not sure where that response was sent! Okay so here it is again. I fertilized one waterlily about six weeks ago when I potted it. This morning, I also fertilized the water hawthorne which is also submerged in a pot.
 
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For Chelated iron, some types don't work well unless you have lower pH, which you probably don't want in your pond. Here is one made for aquaponics:
http://www.amazon.com/AquaIron-Iron...qid=1433882561&sr=8-11&keywords=chelated+iron

Or a smaller amount of a similar formulation:
http://www.amazon.com/Carl-Pool-CP104-Iron-Chelate/dp/B001SGXL56

Either should work and will last you just about forever. My bog has plants directly rooted into the pea gravel as well and it is fairly common for me to see this happen once or twice a year. It is particularly noticeable on pickerel rush and I think it is basically caused by lower iron in my water that eventually is used up by the plants and needs to be replenished. Other plants in my native clay soil in pots seem just fine.

To treat the bog I just shake a few tablespoons of this over the general area of the plant's roots in the gravel and, even though the water basically flows up through the gravel in my bog, the green comes back to my plants in about a week or so. I should probably just go ahead and do it on a preventative basis 2-3 times a year, but for now I'm happy letting the plants tell me what they need.

I've also heard of people putting regular old steel nuts and washers into their gravel and just letting them rust away to keep us some iron, but I don't know if that is really effective. And in your case, like mine, you probably want to turn the situation around right away not wait for a bunch of metal to slowly rust and make the iron accessible. When I upgrade the pond (it is inevitable for any pond owner), I might try dropping a few nuts and bolts into the gravel when I shovel it in...
 
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Thank you for your detailed response, MHB; I was in fact thinking they looked anemic. That stuff is pricey here with the Canadian dollar being so low ($65 plus shipping and tax!) but I'll look around to see if there are any cheaper options (other than rusty nuts and bolts : ). Good to know what I should be looking for.
 

addy1

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iron scrubbies great to put iron in, steel wool
 

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