Important of PH for koi fish

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The importance of pH

As koi keepers we are more water keepers than biologists, and as water consists of H²O (as well as everything else dissolved within it) we owe it to our koi to understand a little chemistry. This will then increase our success and fulfilment, ultimately benefiting our koi.



Water is an amazing substance that makes life on earth possible. Besides making a pond ‘wet’ and providing something for our koi to swim in, water enables all the necessary chemical reactions to take place that help maintain a pond’s health and balance.



Water is the world’s best solvent. You can tell where water has been by analysing what it has dissolved in it. For this reason, the water in an upland, mountain stream is relatively low in dissolved minerals, whereas the opposite is true for a lowland river or lake. A koi pond is best modelled on the chemistry and water quality found in a lowland lake as this is the natural habitat of the wild-type ancestors of our koi.



Water and ions

A molecule of pure water (H²O) consists of two hydrogen atoms joined to one oxygen atom. In a pond, the water molecules separate (or dissociate) into ions – positively charged hydrogen ions (H+) and negatively charged hydroxyl ions (OHˍ). These ions are constantly forming and reforming and will do so with any ion of an equal and opposite charge. It is this characteristic of water that makes it such an excellent solvent. For example, common salt – sodium chloride(NaCI) will dissolve readily in water forming sodium ions (Na⁺) and chloride ions (CI). This is true for many other elements and compounds, meaning that each aquatic environment in the world, will have its own unique chemistry.


pH

pH is a measure of the acidity or alkalinity of a substance and is an important measure for pond water. It is measured on a scale of 0 to 14, where 7 is neutral, below 7 is acidic and above 7 is alkaline.

Pure water is neutral (neither acid or alkaline) and is the standard against which acidity and alkalinity is measured. pH actually measures the quantity of free hydrogen ions (the ‘H’ in pH) and recognises that free hydrogen ions make a substance acidic. More hydrogen ions relative to hydroxyl ions will make the pond acidic, more hydroxyl ions relative to hydrogen ions will make the pond more alkaline – so pH is a matter of balance.

Taking lowland lakes as our pond’s model for water quality, our pond’s pH must be alkaline – being stable between 7.0 and 8.5.



why koi prefer slightly alkaline water?

As descendants of carp, our koi are a lowland, still water fish. By the time fresh, clean and relatively pure mountain water has reached their natural habitats, it would have picked up an array of salts and minerals, making the lowland water alkaline and hard.

As their physiology has become adapted to this water chemistry, a complete filter system must be provided with a similar pH and water quality in ponds or they will become stressed.

The target pH is between 7.0 and 8.5.



Processes in a pond that can affect its pH

As pond keepers, we should aim for two things when managing our pond chemistry.

·A water quality that is within our koi’s natural limits (i.e. what their physiology is adapted to and able to tolerate)

·Having achieved a suitable water quality, that it remains stable and within our fishes’ natural limits to avoid stress and disease.

This especially applies to pH. There is a constant tug-of-war occurring in koi pond where various natural factors conspire to alter the pH with a tendency to cause fish problems. Essentially there are 3 problems that you may need to address in your pond.

·The pH is consistently too low.

·The pH is consistently too high

·The pH is very unstable and prone to wild fluctuations.



What if pH is less than 7.0 and becomes acidic?

In effect, speaking chemically, this means that there is an abundance of free H⁺ ions. A number of natural biological processes will put pressure on the pH of a koi pond to become acidic.

a.Biological filtration. When koi release ammonia (NH³) they are releasing nitrogen and hydrogen ions. When that ammonia is broken down by bacteria into nitrite (NO²) the three free hydrogen ions are released into the water, causing a drop in pH. As ammonia excretion and biofiltration proceed unabated in every pond, there is a relentless downward pressure on pH in every pond. If the pH is allowed to drop below 7, then the addition of further free hydrogen ions accelerates the drop in pH, leading to a pH crash, causing your fish and other aquatic life real stress.


b.Respiration. Plants (including blanketweed), fish and bacteria respire constantly taking in oxygen and releasing carbon dioxide. This process can also cause the pH to drop as the carbon dioxide combines with water to form carbonic acid. Excessive plant growth can cause the pH to drop to extremes at night, rising again out of the danger zone in the day as plants utilise the carbon dioxide in photosynthesis.

A drop in pH in a pond to below 7 will lead to dramatic changes in koi health, particularly if they are long term.

Colours in koi are likely to fade through the deposition of excess mucus while in extreme cases, koi may even be seen to gasp at the surface. Acidic pond water is also likely to be corrosive to exposed plastic and metal surfaces, causing the pond water to become a toxic cocktail of contaminants.



What if the pH exceeds 9.0?

From experience, an excessively high pH is less extreme on our koi than a low pH, but should still be avoided. While a drop in pH is caused quite naturally, excessively alkaline water is likely to have been caused by a pollutant, with cement or builder’s lime the No.1 suspect.

The symptoms of an excessively alkaline pond will cause fish to secrete excess mucus and also lead to gasping at the surface, very similar in fact to those when fish experience acidic conditions.

A buffer is a chemical that when added to a pond, will help to stabilise a suitable pH. The natural tendency is for a pond’s pH to become acidic. A buffer reacts with any excess hydrogen ions (if and when an excess arises) and will release them back again into the pond water should the pH rise too high.

The most widely used buffer in and around ponds is calcium carbonate (CaCO³). This can be in the form of crushed shells, limestone gravel or similar material.



How a buffer works in your pond

Let’s say, through extreme levels of respiration, carbon dioxide is released into the water. This combines with water, to form carbonic acid, which dissociates into two different ions.

Example: H²O + CO² H²CO³ H+ + H+ + CO³²-



The free hydrogen ions have a potential to make the water acidic.

Adding a buffer – such as calcium carbonate (CaCO³) to ‘soak up’ those free hydrogen ions, prevents the pH from dropping.



By adding limestone gravel to your filter, the following will occur.

CaCO3 + H2CO3 Ca(HC03)2 Ca++ + HC03- + HC03-

Limestone + carbonic acid equals Calcium bicarbonate, which dissociates into Calcium and bicarbonate ions (The hydrogen ions are no longer ‘free’ so do not contribute to the pond’s acidity).



This buffer will also work in reverse, releasing hydrogen ions back into the water should the water become excessively alkaline. For example, when the pH rises towards pH9, the calcium bicarbonate (which is now dissolved in the water) will release its hydrogen ions, causing the pH to drop slightly (but still remain alkaline), leading to a deposition of insoluble calcium carbonate onto submerged surfaces – including some plants.



Note

Water is an excellent solvent. Any substance that become dissolved in a solvent is called a solute. So salt (the solute) is dissolved in water (the solvent) to make a salt solution. A solution, if sampled at any number of points will be made up of precisely the same proportions of solute and solvent.

related link: http://completekoifishcare.blogspot.my/
 

crsublette

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Article is ok.

People just have to keep in mind the author is writing for a nishikigoi pond, that is an unitrophic aquaculture system. These ponds involve typical aquaculture techniques in their pond design, mechanical filtration, biological filtration, and chemistry concerns.

For water garden ponds (that is a multitrophic aquaculture system)... these following two hyperlinks should be considered as study material: 1) anoxic filtration system; 2) integrated aqua-vegeculture system... which these are just an example of an approach to be considered...

In transition or in a beginner's pond or in other contexts, I imagine there can be elements of both a nishikigoi and water garden.


Also, in karen555 thread's article above, there are also some issues with accuracy in context of the stoichiometry of the buffering reactions... due to much being shorthanded... also, can't forget that water movement in a pond speeds along the reaction processes of carbonic acid associating/dissociating and expelling carbon dioxide out of the water... Here are a couple hyperlinks to help clarify: 1) Carbon Dioxide, Alkalinity vs KH; 1) reaction of calcium carbonate with water.

I imagine there are other issues as well, but these are the few that stood out to me.

Just be aware of what ya read... and... always... irrelevant of what ya read... Trust, but verify. :)
 
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Meyer Jordan

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ust be aware of what ya read... and... always... irrelevant of what ya read... Trust, but verify.
I prefer the opposite approach...verify, then trust.

I always chuckle when I see mentioned Dr. Novak's anoxic filtration. It is always presented like it is some wonderful and unique discovery, when all it really does is approximate the normal bacterial action and processes extant in an earthen-bottom body of water. As to the linked article, there are several questionable assertions contained therein.
 

crsublette

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I prefer the opposite approach...verify, then trust.
Aahh... however... you first portray trust by simply reading the document... so then, you can know what there is to verify. ;) :)


I always chuckle when I see mentioned Dr. Novak's anoxic filtration. It is always presented like it is some wonderful and unique discovery, when all it really does is approximate the normal bacterial action and processes extant in an earthen-bottom body of water. As to the linked article, there are several questionable assertions contained therein.
I agree on all points.

Although, to be fair to Dr. Novak, he is an ichthyologist with post doctoral study in limnology and microbiology so I think he is aware of earthen-bottom body of water.... he's just using a bit of "flare" of "wonderful and unique" to try to give his product that marketing edge. ;)
 

Meyer Jordan

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Although, to be fair to Dr. Novak, he is an ichthyologist with post doctoral study in limnology and microbiology so I think he is aware of earthen-bottom body of water.... he's just using a bit of "flare" of "wonderful and unique" to try to give his product that marketing edge.

It is not really a product but a concept. One that Dr. Novak introduced several years ago and still, as yet, has not gained any real acceptance among pondkeepers. I have never seen any real data that documents how well this concept functions, if at all.

I read newspapers from around the world. That does not imply that I trust what I read. If anything, the complete opposite is true. I am skeptical of all that I read until it can be verified.
 

crsublette

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It is not really a product but a concept. One that Dr. Novak introduced several years ago and still, as yet, has not gained any real acceptance among pondkeepers. I have never seen any real data that documents how well this concept functions, if at all.
I agree... However, we have all of the practitioners utilizing Dr. Novak's conceptual product, instructions verbatim, with success as is indicative and expected by Novak.
 

crsublette

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It is not really a product but a concept. One that Dr. Novak introduced several years ago and still, as yet, has not gained any real acceptance among pondkeepers. I have never seen any real data that documents how well this concept functions, if at all.

I am skeptical about it as well (as anybody can find by reading my past history with Novak), but, other than stating a "lack of real acceptance among pondkeepers", you have no data to dispute what is achieved by the practitioners of Novak's product.

I am fine with folk being skeptical, as long as the skepticism comes from a healthy open-mind.
 
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Meyer Jordan

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Who are these "practioners of Novak's products"? This concept has never gained any real acceptance in the Koi community that I know of mainly because there are other options for denitrification. With regards to ammonia oxidation, it is a most inefficient method when compared to aerobic (autotrophic) conversion.
As far as the oblique remark implying whether or not I have a "healthy open-mind', I scan 100's of research documents each week looking for new data and confirmation of existing data. Hardly the actions of a closed minded individual, who would only surround themselves with what They believed.
 

crsublette

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Who are these "practioners of Novak's products"?
Your Trickle Tower buddy Manky Sanke is one... more practitioners found on Novak's website, http://www.mankysanke.co.uk/html/anoxic_filtration.html... a koi breeder in japan (mentioned on his website) and some koi connoisseurs here in the states (mentioned on his website)... more practitioners found at koiphen and other forums...

Correct, the AFS "has never gained any real acceptance in the Koi community" and I think there is merit in their objections as well.

This concept has never gained any real acceptance in the Koi community that I know of mainly because there are other options for denitrification. With regards to ammonia oxidation, it is a most inefficient method when compared to aerobic (autotrophic) conversion.
Yep, I am totally aware of this and agree with ya, but this does not make Novak's product wrong.

As far as the oblique remark implying whether or not I have a "healthy open-mind', I scan 100's of research documents each week looking for new data and confirmation of existing data. Hardly the actions of a closed minded individual, who would only surround themselves with what They believed.
That is all well and good... Glad to hear it... :)

I have shown my self to fervently not entirely agree with it in the past yet I still see merit in....

....but, ultimately, the decision is up to the reader....

... If the best you have to persuade the reader's otherwise is "I scan 100's of research documents each week looking for new data and confirmation of existing data to prove my case... there are other options", then ok, but that mentality nor statement is not persuasive at all nor (to me) does it come across as open-minded.

If you want to state a more persuasive case against why Novak's conceptual product should be outright ignored... then fine and do it... If not.. then obviously you won't....

I just find there is something to learn by ventures from these doctorates such as Novak and McMurtry whom are using their knowledge base to try to directly help hobby folk...
 
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I've never understood why people like Dr. Novak (anoxic filtration) or Dr Adey (algae turf scrubber) try to claim or patent natural processes.
From the results of their actions, it seems like advancement in the hobby is restricted, not advanced.
 

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Or how about this @Meyer Jordan ... rather than deriding Novak and I... try this...

Simply state your solution and let the readers decide....

Again, as you did in another thread, you have ventured into referring to an undefined subject.

State my solution to what?

Was there a problem here that was needing solution?
 

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