I would like to see my fish now..

[sentrek]

How long until I should panic? Its been one week today since I cleaned and refilled the pond, it is now green as can be but all test were good so now has 3 comets and 3 shubunkins since Friday night. The pond is about 1100 gallons, it has a 20 gallon bio filter, and aerator, spitter, and 900gph pump running through the filter.
When I tested the water on 7/1 the ph was 7.6, ammonia was .5, nitrite was 1.0, nitrate was 10.0. When I tested the water 7/5 the ph was 7.6 still, everything else tested 0.0. I have no idea what the water temperature is yet. How long should I expect to wait for it to start to clear up before I try plan b?

 

[crsublette]

The thread, Algal Blooms, might give ya some relief. It might be a while or it might be soon for it to dissipate. Stay positive Carrallton, Texas !! :claphands: :blueflower: :fish2:

Although, your test results are a bit concerning, but it might be due to your recent cleaning. Generally, the most cleaning I do is use a pond vacuum to suck any debris, flush out the waste from my filters, and do an oxidizer dose (very briefly bypassing my biofilters).

It looks like ya pushed your pond into the infamous "mini-cycle". Nitrite of 1ppm is concerning, but, since you are registering Nitrates already, I think your pond will reduce the Nitrite soon enough. Nitrite is much more toxic than ammonia and your current .5 ppm Ammonia will create much more Nitrites, but, due to the Nitrates presence, I would not be concerned just yet. Just something to check on to make sure the Nitrite does clear up soon.

How long until I should panic? Its been one week today since I cleaned and refilled the pond, it is now green as can be but all test were good so now has 3 comets and 3 shubunkins since Friday night. The pond is about 1100 gallons, it has a 20 gallon bio filter, and aerator, spitter, and 900gph pump running through the filter.
When I tested the water on 7/1 the ph was 7.6, ammonia was .5, nitrite was 1.0, nitrate was 10.0. When I tested the water 7/5 the ph was 7.6 still, everything else tested 0.0. I have no idea what the water temperature is yet. How long should I expect to wait for it to start to clear up before I try plan b?

And.... I did not read correctly. Glad everything tested ok for ya. :banana:

 

[crsublette]

bah, duplicate post... first time this has happened to me... first for everything.

 

[sentrek]

So much information... I will give it a while before I do anything...

 

[dieselplower]

What is plan B? You need plants and time for the beneficial bacteria to build up and outcompete the algae for the nutrients in the pond. A UV clarifier would help as well. You could do a water change to dilute the green water but it will likely just repopulate. Please don't scrub down the liner

 

[HTH]

When I tested the water on 7/1 the ph was 7.6, ammonia was .5, nitrite was 1.0, nitrate was 10.0. When I tested the water 7/5 the ph was 7.6 still, everything else tested 0.0. I have no idea what the water temperature is yet. How long should I expect to wait for it to start to clear up before I try plan b?

The numbers tell you the pond is cycling. There is no plan B while it is cycling.. Right now the algae is doing what you filter can not yet do.

If the algae is on the thick side use some quilt batting to remove some of it. You don't want a clear pond but get rid some of the algae so as not to get pea soup. Each bit of algae removed this way is nitrate removed from the pond.

 

[sentrek]

I do not have a solid plan b yet, but thinking if needed to buy one of those store bought pressurized bio/uv filters and run it before going to my current diy bio filter. And or possibly doing one of those fines filters using my 15 gallon barrel I have a few layers of the quilt batting.

 

[sentrek]

The numbers tell you the pond is cycling. There is no plan B while it is cycling.. Right now the algae is doing what you filter can not yet do.

If the algae is on the thick side use some quilt batting to remove some of it. You don't want a clear pond but get rid some of the algae so as not to get pea soup. Each bit of algae removed this way is nitrate removed from the pond.

Thanks HTH, I know by the test results that it is cycling, which is good, but I am just trying to figure out how long until I should be concerned that maybe my filter isn't big enough like so many have suggested, It is not anywhere near the 10% that has been recommended. That is why I am thinking about plan b now instead of when its too late.

 

[crsublette]

Thanks HTH, I know by the test results that it is cycling, which is good, but I am just trying to figure out how long until I should be concerned that maybe my filter isn't big enough like so many have suggested, It is not anywhere near the 10% that has been recommended. That is why I am thinking about plan b now instead of when its too late.

I like what I am reading there. :claphands: :claphands:

In my opinion, the bio/uv combo units are below average quality for beginners. The DIY bio units are much much better than the basic combo static submerged bio products sold in stores, unless ya can get one that is constructed as a wet/dry bio-filter. You can make a very basic DIY bio-filter unit out of trashcans, barrels, stock tanks, anything. If you are wanting a UV, then get one of those units that are standalone units, either bypass or inline with the plumbing and be sure to install a valve prior to the UV. These type of UV products, that are seperate from the bio-filter, are usually of much better quality than what is found in the bio/uv combo units. To help ya choose a UV, then read What size UV?. With your flow rate of 900gph, a 6~22 watt UV, that is assuming the UV emits near 22,000 µWs/cm²; also, personally, since UV's light strength fades over time, I would get one that is a bit oversized by around 40%. So, if it were me, then I would aim for anything around a 9~32watt UV. Just keep in mind, the higher the UV strength, the better it will kill in higher flow rates.

 

[HTH]

The 10% thing is a rule of thumb. The real issue is fish load and what plants might be rotting on the bottom.

What Charles said! DIY the bio filter. People are often disappointed with store bought filters unless they spend a lot of money and even some time then. It would be expensive to build, ship. and provide shelf space for filters based on 55 gallon drums. But most people can buy the drum for $10 and up.

 

[sentrek]

personally I would like to avoid a uv all together if I can, Its just something else to go wrong and another outlet required to run it. I was just thinking about one of those in addition to my current filter since there somewhat compact so should be easy to hide, plus I see some people on here that use them and they seem to work (i understand there are probably alot of other variables involved as well). I am trying to avoid going with a larger bio filter for a few reason, one is I don't have a truck anymore so hauling large items home is out and so is hauling home more rocks to help hide and create a new waterfall for a larger filter. Also, when i purchased all the media, and the plumbing parts, and the light diffuser to support the media even for this 20 gallon tote, all that stuff added up to alot of money real quick, And since I would have to buy it all over again for a larger tank it just doesn't seem cost effective.

 

[HTH]

Give the current setup more time to work then worry about plan B if it won't.

Having said that.

You should have some light diffuser left. (if you need it)

You may be able to set the barrel into the ground a ways.

Don't use rock for media.. Plastic of various types can be made to work and is much lighter. Strapping or snow fence come to mind.

Pant a bush/hedge/flowers to hide the barrel which you will have painted to blend in.

Bio filters can be quite simple. Just in and an out for the most part. Not nearly as bad as you are imagining.

 

[sentrek]

Well, good news is I may not have to worry about plan b, when I got home from work the water has started clearing up. I can see the stones in the top of the plant pots that are about 6-8 inches below the surface that I couldn't see this morning when I left, so starting to feel much better already. I may still use the 15 gallon barrel I bought and make a baki shower type filter or fines filter with it though.

 

[sentrek]

Well, water is starting to getting pretty green again, I want to assume its because it's been 100+ for a few days abs this pond gets direct sun all day. I have a small bucket filed with batting right now filtering to see if that helps.

 

[sentrek]

Well, water cleared up pretty nice, then it rained for the last three days but water still looks ok. I noticed tonight I have tadpoles, lots of them, anything I should do or let nature do its thing?