I create a pond almost 10000 liters , the deep of the water vary between 0.5 to 0.8 m, and is complet expose to sun. O have a very good filter and 24w UV light. To make the water clear I bought Tera Pond Algo Fin and follow all instruction and did not work not at all. I bought SCD Pond , I follow all instruction and no any result . At the end I bought Tera Pond Algorem even I have few surgeons and the is not recommended to be used , risk my surgeons I apply the Algorem. After few hours I had a foam on top of pond and I remove it , after that nothing . The water still the same . I end up changing all water in the pond because I've seen that my surgeons are still OK. My koi fish were a little clampy but after I change the water they get better. I don't have so many plants in the pond as I've seen in prewious treads that I suppose to have . Now the water is clear but I am sure an two days it will be green. If somebody can help. I send a lot of money for this chemical/biological products and with no any result .
I cannot get rid of green water.
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First and foremost, stop with all the chemicals; they're not needed. You also can retire the UV light, too. What you'll find here is many use upflow wetland filtration (what we refer to as bog filtration, though a misnomer). Search the forum for many threads and ideas if you're interested. The gist is, this is a natural and very effective way to take care of your pond's filtration needs. There's a reason you're getting an algal bloom and it's brought on by both NPS (new pond syndrome) and too many nutrients in the pond (due to over feeding, over crowding, ineffective removal of organic debris). So the idea is; filter with a bog and you can stop regular maintenance (except for thinning plants every now and then), maintain a large, effective area for nitrifying bacteria, and a place to put a LOT of plants to take up the resultant nitrates. Along with this, you need good water movement and LOTS more plants for the pond proper. You want to aim for 60% surface coverage; this will help shade the pond and keep temps down as well as curtail the ease of free-floating algal blooms, which you are experiencing.
Now, if you've changed water and done any kind of 'scrubbing', you've now put your pond back in the NPS condition; the algae is actually helping save your fish from the buildup of ammonia put out by your fish. The UV light WILL kill the free floating type of algae, though not string algae, but once dead, where do you think it will settle? Bottom of your pond as your filter won't eliminate it. So you're feeding the cycle. Also, the UV will kill other beneficial components of your pond. Hence, ditch the light as you won't need it if you go plants and bog filtration. And another nice thing about bogs is you install one and then you're done. Plus the cost is less than the manufactured types.
So the idea here is you're starting over and in so doing, you're going to get spikes in ammonia, nitrites and nitrates until your beneficial bacteria colony grows to suitable size, enough to take care of your system. This is all part of cycling the pond, which can take weeks (though it doesn't have to). Patience will be needed. Don't worry too much about the green water as with time and better practices, it will clear and STAY clear. Balance, that's what you're aiming for. Not overfeeding, not over stocking, bog filtration, plants (did I mention LOTS?) and water movement will see you to success.
I would say we get the most posts from newbies that are having issues from the marketed pond chemicals they've added to try and help their pond. A bog will eliminate all that and be a healthier system.
Now, if you've changed water and done any kind of 'scrubbing', you've now put your pond back in the NPS condition; the algae is actually helping save your fish from the buildup of ammonia put out by your fish. The UV light WILL kill the free floating type of algae, though not string algae, but once dead, where do you think it will settle? Bottom of your pond as your filter won't eliminate it. So you're feeding the cycle. Also, the UV will kill other beneficial components of your pond. Hence, ditch the light as you won't need it if you go plants and bog filtration. And another nice thing about bogs is you install one and then you're done. Plus the cost is less than the manufactured types.
So the idea here is you're starting over and in so doing, you're going to get spikes in ammonia, nitrites and nitrates until your beneficial bacteria colony grows to suitable size, enough to take care of your system. This is all part of cycling the pond, which can take weeks (though it doesn't have to). Patience will be needed. Don't worry too much about the green water as with time and better practices, it will clear and STAY clear. Balance, that's what you're aiming for. Not overfeeding, not over stocking, bog filtration, plants (did I mention LOTS?) and water movement will see you to success.
I would say we get the most posts from newbies that are having issues from the marketed pond chemicals they've added to try and help their pond. A bog will eliminate all that and be a healthier system.
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I never have the green water but have a ton of plants. My bog is growing in the spring usually before I turn the pond back on. The water is a bit winter murky but clear within a few days.
j.w
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