gardenlady said:
I know its the low and high and I normally do every test when I test the water in addition to the KH. 1) Should I be nervous about the KH being so high? 2) Isn't the highest range 400 which I'm really close to now? 3) Should I just do a partial water change to bring it down *how much is partial*? 4) AND..you've told me before not to sweat the highs if they are consistent ..and I'm talking about the PH level being about 9.0 (it's a lighter royal blue than campingcreecher's card she took a pic of for me, but it's always been that color. I still haven't tested my tap water which you suggested I do.
1) Should I be nervous about the KH being so high?
No. Although, I do not know everything, but I have never heard of KH harming the hardy goldfish and koi that we are accustomed to. Now, KH has more of an impact on other fancy goldfish and tropical fish.
2) Isn't the highest range 400 which I'm really close to now?
Refer to
#1.
3) Should I just do a partial water change to bring it down *how much is partial*?
I consider there to be two types of partial water changes: 1) a small 5~10% weekly water change to replenish the minerals in the water; 2) a bigger water change, at least 40% weekly and slowly spread this big change over a period of a day, to dilute the polution created by the fish and other contanimants. If you want to do a bigger water change, of around 40~50%, then spread it out; in otherwords, after the old water has been taken out, spread out that 40% new water over a period of 24 hours or so. Bigger water changes can put your pond and fish into shock and this is why it is good to spread it out. If you want to do anything bigger than 40~50%, then I would strongly recommend a "flow through" water change system, which slowly drip trickles new water into the pond, that is 24/7, while the old pond water runs off, at a low spot or standpipe, out of the pond. More of the serious hobbyists actually maintain "flow through" water change systems that are actually performing a 80~120% weekly water change, but, if the "flow through" system is not properly installed, then there will always be some new water that empties with the old water.
If your source water has a lower pH, then a partial water change would bring it down. Also, a partial water change might bring it down due to potential presence of calcium mineral in the source water. If there is not enough calcium in the water, then the source water will not bring the pH down closer to 8.3~8.5
Be sure to properly aerate the source water, due to the accumulation of carbon dioxide, before testing it since carbon dioxide will artificially lower the pH, but, with a high KH above 9 degree, carbon dioxide has minimal impact on the water's pH. With a 15dKH, the water's pH would definitely not be impacted by carbon dioxide, but there is still an accumulation that can harm the fish even with a 15dKH. So, even though it will not impact your pH test, be sure to still aerate the source water, with a faucet areator or garden nozzle, while adding the water to the pond. If the water addition is a slow trickle into the water, then aerating this water addition is not a concern.
4) AND..you've told me before not to sweat the highs if they are consistent ..and I'm talking about the PH level being about 9.0
If the pH is around 8.3~8.5, with a variance of +/-
.2, which would mean around 8.1~8.7, then do not worry. If the pH actually does reach 9.0 or higher, then I would dose the water with
calcium chloride. If the pH is 9.0 and ya think it might actually be more like 8.8~8.9, then I would not worry.