CHLORAMINE -- HOW TO ELIMINATE

Mmathis

TurtleMommy
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I just realized that our water is apparently treated with CHLORAMINES. All this time, I assumed it was chlorine only.

Trying to balance a QT, and water is consistently high for ammonia, so I tested the tap water -- you guessed it! Ammonia @ at least 0.25 ppm! The add-on hose cartridge I got only reduces chlorine, not chloramines. Added some extra Ammo-chips.... (Have a different one ordered).

Tips for reducing when adding to the QT? Slow drips, extra aeration?
 
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For the short term, pickup some Prime from the big box pet store. For the long term, most economical is probably to buy ChlorAmX. I got mine from Aquatic Eco when I picked up my matala filter pads. There is an agent in Prime and ChlorAmX that binds up the ammonia so that it is removed by the biofilter. Once upon a time I found and linked something I found from an EPA site on Chloramine. It is difficult to filter out of water. It does not dissipate at all. Some filters can remove it, but it requires a lot of dwell time on the filter. I think ChlorAmX is probably going to be your most economical and easiest answer. For my 1000 - 1200 gallon pond I use 1/3 cup. That is if I was filling the pond from empty.
 

HTH

Howard
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I agree. As I understand it the ammonia in the chloramine is converted to Ammonium by the dechlore and not harmful. The problem is that there are two types of test kits. One will register the Ammonium and the other will not. I do not recall more then that. Link for the following

Something to consider when first starting a pond and testing for ammonia while using tap water treated with Chloramine. It is possible to get false positive Ammonia detection. How Dechlorinators and Dechloraminators work is the Chloramine is separated into Chlorine and Ammonia. The Dechlorinator instantly removes all Chlorine. The Ammonia or "Free Ammonia" (NH3) is then bound and turns into Ammonium (NH4) which is "not really" toxic to fish. A reagent test (reagent tests are the kind that you take a sample of your water in a small test tube and add a liquid chemical to test) for ammonia comes 2 types. The first is a Nessler type which uses one reagent and only tests for free ammonia (NH3), which is what you need to know. The problem with this is the reagent and dechlor have a reaction that browns the water giving a false reading to most test brands. The 2nd is Salicylate, which uses 2 reagents and tests for both NH3 and NH4. Since it tests for both, even though the ammonia is "detoxified" it still will detect the Ammonium, NH4. This can be confusing and difficult when trying to establish a cycle. Seachem is supposed to have an Ammonia test that is not affected by the Dechlor and gives a true reading of Free Ammonia. This is important, because though toxic to fish at any level, you need some free ammonia to establish the first part of the cycle. If you have fish in the pond and are trying to establish the "cycle" you need a Free Ammonia level of about .25 ppm but under .50ppm to keep the fish somewhat "safe". I am trying to locate a Seachem Ammonia Test to check it out. Seachem also claims you can use a Salicylate ( 2 part reagent test)but it needs to be done quickly after adding the Dechlor. I have attempted this several times and it does show a lesser level, but it still detects Ammonia. This does not mean that the dechlor isn't working, just that it has been "bound" to the "non-toxic" ammonium form.
 

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