No fish. String algae under water and on edge stone. What product do you recommend? Must be plant safe.
Thanks
Thanks
Best Product to kill/desolve string algae.
- Thread starter Big Lou
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koiguy1969
GIGGETY-GIGGETY!!
hydrogen peroxide will do it... then you can do smaller maintainence doses, or use barley extract which slowly converts to peroxide. i believe its 1 - 99 cent -16oz bottle per 1000 gals on the peroxide. as the first "shock" dose.
How many oz's are maintence dosese? What does it do to the string alae? I would hope it beaks down enough to dissipate. Have you used it yourself? Thankskoiguy1969 said:
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Lou sissy uses it all the time in her pond but for some reason she hasn't been around lately. I just use kitty litter in a net bag and sometimes the straw barley. The barley turns into the Hydrogen Peroxide only the using of straw is a slower process as koiguy stated already. I've never tried the liquid Peroxide myself.
Must be plant safe? Not trying to be a smart arse but...string algae is a plant. There are no products or chemical that I know of that would only target a single species of string algae.
The degree of injury to non-targeted plants would depend on lots of things like the plant species, how it was planted (crown subsurface, just wet feet, etc), time of year, dosage, chemical, etc. The general idea is to add chemical at the minimum level that would reduce the target while keeping the non-targeted plants at least alive. Tricky.
Common treatments would include oxidizers like chlorine, potassium permanganate, hydrogen peroxide, polyhexamethylene biguanide, etc. I've done experiments with hydrogen peroxide and string algae. It takes a lot. Here's my take on the barley straw - hydrogen peroxide myth. Completely made up out of thin air but repeated so often on the web.
Keep in mind these treatments are not a one time deal. String algae will grow back.
Another common treatment is a copper based chemical. Slower to work but longer lasting. Basically the level of copper is maintained high enough to stop string algae from coming back. Most plants are going to have a difficult time with copper. An ionizer is another way to add copper to the water. The best these could do is stop string algae from growing, not enough to kill existing. To get a high enough copper level to stop the string algae from growing could take several ionizers, cost thousands of dollars to buy, and maybe hundreds of dollars per month to operate.
Other treatments include whatever someone can convince you to buy, and there are lots of these although they come and go. These range from magnetic devices to anything with the word "barley".
My solution was to re-design the pond so the plants only appeared to be in the pond but are actually separate, or could be separated. That made pulling the string algae out by hand much easier because it wasn't in and around the plants. This scheme would also allow for chemical treatment.
The degree of injury to non-targeted plants would depend on lots of things like the plant species, how it was planted (crown subsurface, just wet feet, etc), time of year, dosage, chemical, etc. The general idea is to add chemical at the minimum level that would reduce the target while keeping the non-targeted plants at least alive. Tricky.
Common treatments would include oxidizers like chlorine, potassium permanganate, hydrogen peroxide, polyhexamethylene biguanide, etc. I've done experiments with hydrogen peroxide and string algae. It takes a lot. Here's my take on the barley straw - hydrogen peroxide myth. Completely made up out of thin air but repeated so often on the web.
Keep in mind these treatments are not a one time deal. String algae will grow back.
Another common treatment is a copper based chemical. Slower to work but longer lasting. Basically the level of copper is maintained high enough to stop string algae from coming back. Most plants are going to have a difficult time with copper. An ionizer is another way to add copper to the water. The best these could do is stop string algae from growing, not enough to kill existing. To get a high enough copper level to stop the string algae from growing could take several ionizers, cost thousands of dollars to buy, and maybe hundreds of dollars per month to operate.
Other treatments include whatever someone can convince you to buy, and there are lots of these although they come and go. These range from magnetic devices to anything with the word "barley".
My solution was to re-design the pond so the plants only appeared to be in the pond but are actually separate, or could be separated. That made pulling the string algae out by hand much easier because it wasn't in and around the plants. This scheme would also allow for chemical treatment.
See below product -
ALGAE DESTROYER ADVANCED by Pond Care (brand)
* Liquid algae solution for effective treatment of water gardens and ponds
* Discourages the growth of string algae and eliminates green pond water
* Controls algae to keep ornamental ponds and water fountains clean
Keep undesirable pond algae under control and maintain an attractive pond environment. Different types of algae cause cloudy green pond water and unsightly slime that covers ornaments and gravel. Algae Destroyer Advanced effectively controls these different types of algae in water gardens and koi and goldfish ponds containing live plants and fish. Effectively controls "green water" algal blooms, String or Hair Algae (Cladophora) and blanket weed (Oedogonium). 16 ounces treats 4,800 gallons. Not for use in water gardens with freshwater crustaceans including shrimp, crabs, and lobsters.
Warm Weather Caution:
Before using Pond Care Algae Destroyer Advanced, make certain that the pond has vigorous aeration (i.e. a fountain, waterfall, or aeration device) to avoid fish loss due to low oxygen levels. When algae is controlled and removed by the filter or settles to the bottom of the pond, the oxygen level may drop to harmful levels if adequate aeration is not provided. Therefore, when using Pond Care Algae Destroyer Advanced during warm weather and high water temperatures, vigorous 24-hour aeration is required. DO NOT shut off pond pumps and aeration devices at night.
Directions for Use
Add 1 teaspoonful (5ml) for each 50 US Gallon, 1/2 cup for each 1,200 gallons of pond or fountain water. Thoroughly mix Pond Care Algae Destroyer Advanced into pond water by adding near the pump outflow, waterfall, or aeration device. Pond Care Algae Destroyer Advanced can also be mixed in a bucket of pond water and dispensed evenly around the pond.
Repeat dose every three days until algae is controlled. Be prepared to siphon out dead filamentous algae. Once algal growth is under control, add one dose per week. Weekly doses of Pond Care Algae Destroyer Advanced will control algal growth and help reduce pond maintenance.
Active Ingredients:
Poly[oxyethylene(dimethyliminio)ethylene(dimethyliminio)ethylene dichloride]
ALGAE DESTROYER ADVANCED by Pond Care (brand)
* Liquid algae solution for effective treatment of water gardens and ponds
* Discourages the growth of string algae and eliminates green pond water
* Controls algae to keep ornamental ponds and water fountains clean
Keep undesirable pond algae under control and maintain an attractive pond environment. Different types of algae cause cloudy green pond water and unsightly slime that covers ornaments and gravel. Algae Destroyer Advanced effectively controls these different types of algae in water gardens and koi and goldfish ponds containing live plants and fish. Effectively controls "green water" algal blooms, String or Hair Algae (Cladophora) and blanket weed (Oedogonium). 16 ounces treats 4,800 gallons. Not for use in water gardens with freshwater crustaceans including shrimp, crabs, and lobsters.
Warm Weather Caution:
Before using Pond Care Algae Destroyer Advanced, make certain that the pond has vigorous aeration (i.e. a fountain, waterfall, or aeration device) to avoid fish loss due to low oxygen levels. When algae is controlled and removed by the filter or settles to the bottom of the pond, the oxygen level may drop to harmful levels if adequate aeration is not provided. Therefore, when using Pond Care Algae Destroyer Advanced during warm weather and high water temperatures, vigorous 24-hour aeration is required. DO NOT shut off pond pumps and aeration devices at night.
Directions for Use
Add 1 teaspoonful (5ml) for each 50 US Gallon, 1/2 cup for each 1,200 gallons of pond or fountain water. Thoroughly mix Pond Care Algae Destroyer Advanced into pond water by adding near the pump outflow, waterfall, or aeration device. Pond Care Algae Destroyer Advanced can also be mixed in a bucket of pond water and dispensed evenly around the pond.
Repeat dose every three days until algae is controlled. Be prepared to siphon out dead filamentous algae. Once algal growth is under control, add one dose per week. Weekly doses of Pond Care Algae Destroyer Advanced will control algal growth and help reduce pond maintenance.
Active Ingredients:
Poly[oxyethylene(dimethyliminio)ethylene(dimethyliminio)ethylene dichloride]
Same deal. It attacks the cell wall of any plant. Algae, being only one, or a few cells wide cannot survive.
A big plant like say a Canna, Cattail, etc., can afford to have a few cells killed on the surface and still survive. Might not even slow it down. If roots are exposed to water vs in a pot with soil the cell loss can be more of a problem. If the dose is too high or maintained for long periods the amount of damage to Canna and Cattails can start to accumulate to where bacteria, virus, fungus and insects can then attack and risk to the plants increase. Older, hardened, plants would be better able to deal with some cell loss where new shoots would be less able.
Whether this is considered plant safe or not would have to be an opinion call. The seller can always call it plant safe because they also say it must be used as directed and most plants can be expected to survive. If a few plants die a month after application who's to say what kill it? It's impossible to say.
If I had prizing winning and valuable Canna I would not treat. If I lived in a climate where the plants where replaced every spring anyways or replacing a few plants was no big deal I'd treat.
A big plant like say a Canna, Cattail, etc., can afford to have a few cells killed on the surface and still survive. Might not even slow it down. If roots are exposed to water vs in a pot with soil the cell loss can be more of a problem. If the dose is too high or maintained for long periods the amount of damage to Canna and Cattails can start to accumulate to where bacteria, virus, fungus and insects can then attack and risk to the plants increase. Older, hardened, plants would be better able to deal with some cell loss where new shoots would be less able.
Whether this is considered plant safe or not would have to be an opinion call. The seller can always call it plant safe because they also say it must be used as directed and most plants can be expected to survive. If a few plants die a month after application who's to say what kill it? It's impossible to say.
If I had prizing winning and valuable Canna I would not treat. If I lived in a climate where the plants where replaced every spring anyways or replacing a few plants was no big deal I'd treat.
Ruben Miranda
I am so confused
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Hello
Koi eat string Algae :goldfish: :goldfish:
Hint Hint
Ruben
Koi eat string Algae :goldfish: :goldfish:
Hint Hint
Ruben
Thanks for the hint Ruben but our pond is destined to remain fishless. Besides our fear of a repeat massive fis loss wifey is very concerned and probably rightfully so that I will have a seizure or something like that while tending the fish. At least we still have the pond.Ruben Miranda said:
crsublette
coyotes call me Charles
Algae can grow faster than the fish eating it.
Generally, I don't trust the pond store algaecide chemicals. Ya just don't know what they put in them and it is sometimes impossible to get the MSDS sheet for those products.
Oxidizers can kill plants by essentially killing the beneficial bacteria and algae that is helping the plants.
Oxidizers can kill your bio-filter bacteria so disconnect it for at least 3 hours after a dose.
I think the safest is hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) and tougher to over dose, but, just as with anything, you can still over dose with H2O2. To make sure you do not over dose with H2O2, you can get a H2O2 test kit. Do not allow the H2O2 to linger in the water for more than a day. If the test kit detects any H2O2, then I would do a major water change or multiple 10% daily water changes until the H2O2 is significantly reduced.
H2O2 comes in multiple strengths. With the 3% H2O2 at grocery stores, I have used 32 ounces per 1,000 gallons every week, but only when there is an algae presence. You can also get a 35% concentration at a veterinarian store, but you have to be extremely careful with this stuff since it can give you a chemical burn. With 35% H2O2, then 8 ounces per 1,000 gallons every week only when there is noticeable algae presence and it is much easier to overdose with 35% H2O2.
If you use an oxidizer without any algae presence or low organic material presence, then the oxidizer will significantly attack your fish and plants.
There are devices called, Iongens, that utilize copper and it does kill algae as well as other plant life, but it can kill your fish if the copper concentrations exceed .25ppm. When using these devices, you have to follow the directions precisely to the letter. There's a bit more wiggle room with 3% H2O2.
There are the same risks with the pond store algaecides except they're not so honest about the risks.
Generally, I don't trust the pond store algaecide chemicals. Ya just don't know what they put in them and it is sometimes impossible to get the MSDS sheet for those products.
Oxidizers can kill plants by essentially killing the beneficial bacteria and algae that is helping the plants.
Oxidizers can kill your bio-filter bacteria so disconnect it for at least 3 hours after a dose.
I think the safest is hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) and tougher to over dose, but, just as with anything, you can still over dose with H2O2. To make sure you do not over dose with H2O2, you can get a H2O2 test kit. Do not allow the H2O2 to linger in the water for more than a day. If the test kit detects any H2O2, then I would do a major water change or multiple 10% daily water changes until the H2O2 is significantly reduced.
H2O2 comes in multiple strengths. With the 3% H2O2 at grocery stores, I have used 32 ounces per 1,000 gallons every week, but only when there is an algae presence. You can also get a 35% concentration at a veterinarian store, but you have to be extremely careful with this stuff since it can give you a chemical burn. With 35% H2O2, then 8 ounces per 1,000 gallons every week only when there is noticeable algae presence and it is much easier to overdose with 35% H2O2.
If you use an oxidizer without any algae presence or low organic material presence, then the oxidizer will significantly attack your fish and plants.
There are devices called, Iongens, that utilize copper and it does kill algae as well as other plant life, but it can kill your fish if the copper concentrations exceed .25ppm. When using these devices, you have to follow the directions precisely to the letter. There's a bit more wiggle room with 3% H2O2.
There are the same risks with the pond store algaecides except they're not so honest about the risks.
Thank you for the very detailed information. All of these solutions seem like a good 'ol game of Russian roulette. Sincerely, no disrespect intended. Just being lighthearted.
Ruben Miranda
I am so confused
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Hello
Lou Wrote:
So sorry to here that is still a issue.
And I hope that they can get you stable (If that is the right word)
Heres to good health for you.
Ruben
Lou Wrote:
Lou
So sorry to here that is still a issue.
And I hope that they can get you stable (If that is the right word)
Heres to good health for you.
Ruben
crsublette
coyotes call me Charles
None taken. There's risk to it all. All we can do is mitigate the risk by following proper instruction.Big Lou said:
If you don't feel comfortable using the chemicals, then it is probably safer to not use them.
You can try the fish route to control the algae issue, which could definitely work.
I have been looking into Weather Loaches and it appears they're also big algae eaters like plecos except the loach is more cold hardy than plecos.
Since you don't have any koi, you can look into getting some Applesnails to eat the algae. I am not sure if the loaches will eat the snails.
Just buying something because the title sounds like no algae and dumping it in...yeah, definitely Russian roulette. Little bit of research on what the product actually is, little bit of understanding of the other plants, pond volume, careful measuring, etc., becomes less and less like Russian roulette and more and more like pond management.
It's only Russian roulette when you don't know what chamber the bullet is in.
It's only Russian roulette when you don't know what chamber the bullet is in.
If you have a good bio-filter, you will never have algae problems. We've been making our own bio-filters for years and they keep our water clear, healthy and free of hair algae. I've got a good diagram if anyone is interested.
Your's Koily, Lorraine
Your's Koily, Lorraine