Good advice i've read here so far.
Here's my 2 cents.
First, is that enough water flow for fish.
Fish care about water without poisonous toxins (i.e., ammonia, nitrite) as possible. Flow rate don't matter much to them. There is a new design of ponds called the "stream flow or river" designed ponds where the pond's water volume is actually turned over 10 times per hour or higher (i.e., a 2000 gal pond with 20,000gph). I have not read yet about any harm to fish in these designs.
Second, do I need activated carbon in my filters?
Nope, only if you want. Carbon does eventually disentegrate releasing toxins back into the water so be sure you change it out on occassionally, as recommened by the manufacturer.
Third, how long do I wait to add fish to the pond?
Depends on the organic load of your pond and the bacteria already present. Takes time for Nature's filtration to be created. In the most optimal conditions where water is a constant 70~72*F temp and ph 7.8~8.4 and minimal salinity, then I have seen ponds be ready for a huge load of fish within 3~5 days. Otherwise, if you add more fish than the filtration can handle, then a buildup of toxins will occur so then you need to chemically neutralize them or remove some fish.
Slowly add your fish. Number depends on the pond. Generally, I would go by the .5 inch of fish per 10 gallon of water at the beggining. Once you know your filtration is established, then put in more fish. You will know your filter is established once you read 0ppm total ammonia and 0ppm nitrite. Personally, I would wait at least a week until you decide to add the next batch of fish.
Test your water. If your water is too soft, that is around below 6.5 pH, then the fish is not going to do well at all. Generally, if you do not want a pH crash to kill your fish, then buff soft water up to around at least 7.4~7.6. I have read many aquaponic systems keeping pH at 7.0~7.2, except these are very controlled ponds often found inside a greenhouse. I am told Phoenix has very hard water, that is above 8.4 pH, so you'll probably be ok. I would double check for sure, test the water.
I love all the info on the filters. Last night, after your comments, I started running the pump out of a 55 gallon barrel and into my two filters and then back into the barrel just to check flow. I can run one or both filters without overflowing. It does utilize the enitre openings of the (2) 1.5" outlets and the 2" outlet when only one filter is used.
Side note. Think about the "dwell time" of the water. For a filter like yours, you would want something like a 3~5 minute "dwell time"; for example, do the math to figure out what it would take for your pumps to flow 35 gallons (or whatever the volume of your bio-filter) of water within 3~5 minutes through the container.
From what I've learned, the concept of "dwell time" is mutually exclusive on the design of the filter. The idea is to make sure the bacteria consumes all the toxins and to make sure all of the old water gets pushed out with new water. I think this is still controversial, but it should be something to consider. If your filter does not appear to be doing well, then divert the flow so to slow down the flow through your bio-filter.
According to the ERIC, which is very subjectively claimed to be the "best filter in the world", he recommends a pond turnover rate of one time every 2.5~3.5 hours, which is around a 3~5 minute dwell time, through the bio-filter.
According to the anoxic filtration, which is very subjectively claimed to be the "holy grail of filters", he recommends any flow rate as long as the incoming water is properly diffused, slowing down the water's entrance into, through the bio-filter.
It is important to keep your bio-medium clean of debris so you can attempt to make it to be fluidized with a very strong areator diffusor to try to simulate a moving bed, or fluidized bio-filter.
Point I'm trying to make here is all filtration will work to varying degrees and all have their limitations to varying degrees. Yet, everyone seems to have show quality koi made possible with "their" filtration. One thing that these filters do not change is the fact of how bacteria are made to work according to the rules of nature and everyone believes their filter allows for the optimal efficiency work place for these bacteria or they are just simply satisfied with what they have.
"Proper mechanical filtration prior to bio-filters and proper regular cleanouts of the mechanical filtration" seem to be the one universal rule out there I have seem to read thus far. Still, opinions on mechanical filtration quality prior to bio-filtration is just as varied as it is on bio-filters.
Of course, there are those folk that have the "absolutely perfect, everything always remains perfect", filtration systems.
Ultimately, if you are having problems, then the fact remains in the organics or toxins residing in the water, your water's chemistry, and your filtration methodology. This has never changed, so far, from what I have read and understand, .
So, GreatDanesDad, I am hoping for the best in your endeavors. You chose a very interesting, a very passionate hobby.
And be prepared for the very diverse forums of advice :goldfish:
